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95EXRv6
10/01/2003, 09h40
grabbed this from a webpage ...

http://www.hondalive.net/lordaccord/lowering101.html

too many characters to post in one ...



will do them in 2 posts ...



--What are springs and struts? Why do springs effect my ride? Whats the difference between shocks and struts? Why stiffer?



Ok, first you have to understand the difference between the springs and the shocks and their stiffness. Its not the same thing. You dont want a stiff spring and a soft shock, but you can be just fine with a soft spring and a stiff shock.



the principal behind it is that as a spring gets smaller, the rate gets higher. The higher the springrate, the quicker and harsher the bouncing of the spring. However, the higher the springrate, the less the spring compresses where it usually would the most on stock springs. This is what causes bad rides and also what gives better performance as in less body roll. Frankly, thats what it gives you.



The principal behind shocks is that the shock compresses a certain amount (of course) as the spring does, but it really isnt absorbing the "shock" per say. No matter what shock you have, no matter how stiff or soft it is, whatever, its not doing the work, the spring is. The shock works to STOP the spring from the bouncing caused by its compression and decompression. However quick the shock reacts or rebounds will affect how much of it you feel and how much the car moves.





--Why shouldnt I put an aftermarket spring on stock shocks?



This is why you dont just throw any damned spring on the stock shocks - you all that want a technical answer - this is it. It takes power to stop a progressive rate spring. Your stock springs are not progressive. They are evenly spaced apart. This means when you hit a bump in the road, the entire spring can compress, there are no dead coils persay. It takes a lot less power to stop a non progressive spring. Think of it like you have a 1 foot long spring with evenly spaced coils, you hold it down, and let it go. Now you do that again with a 8 inch tall spring that has all the coils near the top all close together, even touching. THis means that you have a lot less spring pushing it. BUt principal physics says its going to decompress a hell of a lot quicker, thus faster.



Now, I am a supporter of Eibach, they have awesome quality springs. They are a world renound company. But despite whatever they say, over and over, and whatever your friends or people on this board say, you cant make a shorter, progressive rate spring to work with stock shocks. Its springrate may be at the limits, it may feel about like stock, but it aint. under your car your shocks are working the hardest they have in a while to carry that springload. Now, whatever the claims, however long your friends have had them, is absolutely fabulous, go for it. If they say they are for stockers, then they are. But I have seen prokits blow stock shocks as fast as race springs. It happens easily. However, they are the least likely to do it. So if you are gonna cheap out, cheap out the right way. (I wonder if I could get that published in an oxy moron book...)





--What has more effect on my ride and performance? Springs or Shocks? Both?



Now, addressing the question of which has more of an effect on the ride. Well, the spring. But the shock has an equal effect WHEN you have the spring. Heres how that works. You know how I talked about the spring absorbing the shock and compressing, and the shock matching it to stop the compression? Well, the same principal applies going into, say, a hard 75 degree turn at 75. What happens? Your spring compresses. You can certainly tell on stock springs, its less obvious with aftermarket springs though. But anyhow, in this instance, the quicker that shock can come out of compression and stop the springs compression, the more even your car will remain. Thus less body roll, and a still yet centered center of gravity. This equals control. Good control. Cant just the spring do this? Yes yes, of course, but even when you put that spring on stock shocks and head to the twisties, your car will still roll. Not as much, of course, but it will fluxuate. You lack evenness and clarity and preciseness. Your crux lies in how well that shock will respond.





--I heard that I can cut and melt my stock springs...is this a good way to save money and lower my car?



NO!! Since your stock springs arent highly pro rate, you will be cutting off your springrate as you go. You will have a very stiff, often uneven, harsh ride and you will blow your stock shocks. You also can never revert back and if you screw one thing up you are basically screwed alltogether. Its a money trap.





--What are the differences between different brands and genres of springs?



Well, generally springs, as they get lower, have a higher and higher springrate, which is how close together the spring coils are to each other - but a prorate spring gathers coils together towards the top and spreads out as they move down. The lower the springrate, the softer the spring, the higher the car sits. Eibach is the choice spring for many people as they claim compatibility with stock struts, which is not all that far off, however they are still a highly progressive spring, even though they have a relatively lower springrage, and really are still putting a lot of pressure on your struts, its just unrealized since the springs have a lower springrate at the bottom. Neuspeed springs and H&R springs are basically the "next step" up. They offer an allright ride, but they are a lot stiffer than eibach springs and a tad less progressive. They still progress down, except the coils are closer together. These offer higher performance. There are others, like Suspension Techniques, Intrax, Sprint, BBK, etc. Most of these springs are as high or high of a springrate as the Neuspeeds, but some of them are notorious for sagging or being to stiff. However, The designs can be nice and great for the right application, like using S/T sport springs which are a very small drop.





--Ok, enough technical jargon, what about the actual drop height of the springs...what are some different springs?



Here are some springs and their average drops (it varys from generation)



S/T Sport or Neuspeed Sofsport about a 1.0" drop, 3 finger gap Eibach Prokits are about a 1.4" drop, 2 finger gap Neuspeed / H&R Sports are about a 1.8" drop, 1 finger gap Eibach Sportlines are about a 2"+ drop, 0-1 finger gap Neuspeed / H&R Race are about a 2.25" drop, usually no gap, depends on strut



and the catagories for most sport and race springs from other companies (intrax, suspension tech, sprint are about the same drop as neuspeeds.





--Thats nice, but my parents dont want me to lower my car, is there anything I can do that they might be OK with?



Sure, you can go with a minor drop spring like S/T Sport or Eibach prokits. Im sure you will notice the stance of the springs but your parents may not unless they just stare at the car or they always have something to compare it to. Most of all you get rid of a lot of that ugly gap.





--I dont race, I just want people to see me and like my ride. What should I do?



The thing is, if you want the look and comfort and are not extremely concerned about performance, grab up the prokits or sportlines... they are just a softer spring to put it bluntly.





--Whats up with that guy? Why would you lower a car just for looks? I want the best performance baby.



In that case, I would say go with Neuspeed springs. There is a noticeable difference in the performance, but the ride suffers more. The best performance springs are the high springrate springs, but your comfort is compromised. If you are really into it, go for some Race series springs, but I mean if you are really into it.





--Ok, you mentioned struts earlier, but what do I need to do about them?



Well, on just about any car, if you replace your springs, your stock struts arent going to take it near as well, they cant stop the springs. First off, the springs are stiffer...no matter what. THe thing about eibachs is they still they arent uniform and they arent stock springs, and they will be stiffer. Eventually with any spring, especially the very stiff ones like Neuspeed, etc, you are going to blow out your struts...eventually. some people take weeks some months some can go a year but it doesnt matter - Ive seen people blow shocks with prokits just as fast as H&R Race, its still money you have to spend later if you dont do it now.

95EXRv6
10/01/2003, 09h41
--Oh crap, what kind of struts are good?



Some good struts are Koni yellows (the "best" by some) which have adjustable dampers on them (awesome) to match the rebound with the spring you are using or the situation you are in. They also have movable perches, which arent why you should buy them, but if you had to be in a height adjusting need situation, then it might be a nice choice. There are also Neuspeed Konis, which have 5 perches and not just 3. These cost more, but are better geared towards someone who wants to move the perches when paired with Neuspeed springs... Before Konis, I had Bilstein HDs which are a non adjustable strut, they are my favorite and I say they are the best N/A strut, perfect for a budget street application, though the Koni Red had a bit stiffer ride. KYB is another good strut maker that you hear great things about, but their warranty is null and void past a certain drop, I beleive 1.5. Still, for a lesser drop that you want an adjustable strut on, the AGXs remain a definite best value. TOKICOs, well, I say they blow balls. I have grown to hate them the more I ride on them.. no offense to anyone with tokicos but they are best used in a low stress situation, IE with prokits that are on there solely for looks. However, If you choose tokicos for money, I would highly suggest getting the illuminas over the blues, so you can stiffen them up. There are a few other options like the Bec Tec ride height adjustable struts, but I personally have not learned enough about them or seen enough people with them for an extended period of time to draw a conclusion.





--How do you know that if you blown a strut or not? Do you feel any difference?



You will know when your struts blow. Your ride will be come very bouncy as your shocks no longer do their job. You will be very harsh over bumps... even with stock springs you will know. Its pretty bad. Basically what is happening is that your shocks no longer control how much the spring compresses, so when they are gone, your spring just keeps on boucning up and down until it stops. Thats it. All Im saying is that you should know.





--What do you think is the best combination overall?



Now, as for that, my Ideal functional look and good ride combonation is Neuspeed sport and Koni Yellow. You can get your cars ride excellent with Eibach springs, and you can really get your ride down close to the ground with Neuspeed Race and Koni Yellow. H&R springs would be my next choice, and Bilstein struts respectively.





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--BUT I want to raise and lower my car, what should I do?



IF you think that you might be lowering and raising your car often, like car shows, etc, then something that might suit you better is a coilover setup.



Now moving on to coilovers- thats a different ballpark. You ask if a spring shock combo can match that performance and ride of coilovers.





--Whats a coilover...you mean those uppey downy thingys?



The definition of a coilover is a spring threaded on to an adjustable shock body. Thats it.





--Wait a second, I saw some "coilovers" that were just a spring looking thing, there wasnt a strut.



There are companies that make what are called coilover sleeves. Dont be confused. These are just the spring on an adjustable perch that sits on a strut ,like konis,...but the real coilovers are actually combined into all one unit.





--Oh, those coilover sleeves are a lot cheaper, why not just get those?



There are many complaints and problems with the coilover sleeves, Harsh ride, slipping threads, blown shocks, etc, but THey do serve a purpose and many people that dont care about the actual ride but want an adjustable perch for the looks will get them. I don't recommend them.





--What brand of coilover sleeves are the best?



Some popular ones are Skunk 2s, Weapon R, and Ground Control. Most others are generic and made from the same place and have different names on them. Its really up to you, but for the best ride and compatibility, the above listed is the better choice. Best performance being Skunks, best quality and ride being Ground control.





--Will I need struts with coilover sleeves?



Most definitely, these are some of the stiffest springs you are going to come by when lowering your car. If there is a time when you need struts, this is it. THis is also a good reason why many people go to a full coilover setup instead of sleeves and shocks, because the cost becomes almost equal and you can get so much more out of the full setup.





--Well, if I have that sleeve for 300 bucks and shocks for 300 bucks, why would I want TRUE coilovers?



True coilovers are the shit. Really. Since height is adjustable and sometimes the dampers are adjustable, and the spring and shock body are tuned very well to each other, these make for a very nice comfortable ride that performs much better than most strut / shock / coilover sleeve combos. However, you have to pay a price, usually a High one, for the all out compression/rebound/height adjustable coilovers. But when it comes to just height adjustable but well matched setups, like Apexi WS, the price you pay is only 100 or 200 more than what you would for coilover sleeves and shocks. Ask anyone with that kind of a setup, and they will tell you, as I do, its worth the money to go all out.





--What are some good Full coilovers?



This is a mod I will more than likely make in the future. Some popular ones are Tien, H&R, Koni, Neuspeed, Tanabe, and Apexi.





--You talk Coilovers up to be so good, so could a spring or coilover sleeve / shock combo match the performance or ride of a true coilover?



Well, theoretically, by what Im saying, yes. But there is a difference between the construction of a coilover and a spring and a shock. When you have a coilvoer that is tailored together, never to leave one peice, you gain a rigidness in design for the suspension movement. It changes. The ride is smoother because of how well matched the rebound is, but the performance is at its peak as well because of how matched the compression is. IF the shock doesnt have to work as hard to rebound, your performance increases soley with its ability. With say, sportlines and konis, your compression is set. You can match the rebound, but that may not be your peak performance. That may actually be with a stiffer rebound. Take for instance my konis and neuspeeds. My peak ride comfort is at a 180 degree turn. But if Im taking hard turns, I will set it at 360. What I lack is the fine tuning. Its matched, but not tuned. And then you have another issue to throw in. Height and damper adjustable coilovers... hehe. Now you are talking. Taking an already tuned pair and tuning it even more based on your height adjustment. Its a setup that costs money for good reason. It can be almost flawless. Almost perfect.





--So coilovers really are the best?



You are right in your thinking, coilovers are the ultimate in ride and performance, but they arent for everyone. If one is out to spend a little and get as much as possible, a spring shock combo has a LOT to offer. And i mean a LOT. If you arent going to be machine setting your stiffness to .002 with a springrate dialed to 250lbs to match with blabla blah blah... you know, not many will go this far...not racing far, not perfect suspension far. This is WHY I push that a spring shock combo will get the job done, as do most of the other suspension "experts" on the various boards around town....so you gotta think about it before you jump into it. UNderstand it. And you will figure out what is right for you.





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--LETS REVIEW:



The suspension setups-



Cut springs-

Pros: dropped look

Cons: very bouncy and rough ride, blown shocks quickly, no height or damper adjust, uneven springrates



Just springs-

Pros: dropped look, good performance

Cons: rougher, bouncier ride, blown shocks quickly, no major height or damper adjustability



Springs and Shocks-

Pros: great ride, best performance, dropped look, no maintenence

Cons: sometimes bumpier ride in places, no major height adjustability



Just coilover sleeves-

Pros: adjustable dropped look, OK performance

Cons: thread slip, blown shocks quickly, very harsh ride, no damper adjustability



Coilover sleeves and Shocks-

Pros: adjustable dropped look, better performance, semi smooth ride

Cons: thread slip, no damper adjustability



True Coilovers-

Pros: adjustable dropped look, great performance, damper adjustability, springs threaded directly on shock

Cons: some w/o damper adjustability



Others (airbags and dubs)

Pros: instant adjustability, smooth ride

Cons: for show, performance lacks, constant maintenance

95EXRv6
10/01/2003, 10h01
more taken from web



Camber, Caster, and Toe

by Jim Kerr Camber, Caster, and Toe. No, it's not the latest craze in square dancing. These three terms refer to the angles of the tires on your vehicle. When you take your vehicle in for a wheel alignment, these are the angles a technician checks and sometimes adjusts.



Correct camber, caster, and toe angles are important for maximum tire life and safe vehicle handling. Even a small error can make a dramatic difference to the way a vehicle drives. Getting a wheel alignment for your vehicle should put everything back into the correct relationship, but why do they change?



Normal wear in suspension parts may cause the angles to change slightly, but major changes are usually caused by impacts or parts failure. Let's look at Camber first. Camber is the tilt of the wheel in or out. Positive camber readings show the top of the wheel is tilted out, while negative readings show the top of the wheel is tilted in. Theoretically, you want the wheel to be at 0 degrees or straight up and down, and most vehicles are close to this, but suspension design or handling demands may require negative caster settings.



Negative camber is usually used on performance cars. During hard cornering, the body rolls to the outside of the turn. If camber settings were 0 degrees, or vertical, the wheel and tire would roll as well, tilting the top out. The tire tread would lift on the inside of the tire, giving less traction and less cornering force. Negative camber settings will move the tire towards the vertical as the body rolls, keeping all the tread on the ground.



Most passenger cars will have camber settings of 0 degrees to about ¾ positive camber. This keeps the tire vertical during most driving, and the slight positive camber causes the load of the car to be supported better by the wheel bearings. High performance cars often have camber settings of 0 degrees to minus 1½ degrees. The settings are determined by suspension design and the amount of body roll. MacPherson strut suspensions tilt the tire out as the body rolls on corners, so a higher negative camber setting is used than unequal A arms, which tend to tilt the tire in as the body rolls. Solid rear axles used on trucks and some cars should have 0 camber. A negative camber angle usually indicates a bent axle housing and possible bearing failure in the future.



Vehicle engineers and racecar teams will measure the temperature of the tire tread at several points across the tread face to determine if camber settings are correct. Higher heat on one edge of the tire indicates that part has the most grip. Settings are adjusted so the tire grips evenly. The most common causes of camber settings being out are bent suspension parts, or sagging or broken springs. Even a slight impact with a curb (other than parking) can bend suspension parts. Everything may look fine, but if the angles are out, something has moved. Many vehicles on the road today have non-adjustable camber from the factory. Most front wheel drive cars have the angle set at the factory and the body must be modified or aftermarket parts installed to change the camber. If no parts are bent, then the body is probably sitting at an angle or too low because of sagging springs. Many times, replacing the springs will bring camber angles right back to factory specifications.



Don't worry if camber is different from one side of the vehicle to the other. Vehicles pull towards the side with the most positive camber and sometimes a slight difference of ½ degree or less is used to compensate for the crown of the road, which makes the vehicle pull towards the right.



Caster has no effect on tire wear. Caster is used for vehicle stability. Too much caster and the wheels can begin to shimmy like the front wheels on a grocery cart when you go too fast. To little caster and the wheels don't follow the path well. Typically, caster settings will be from + ½ degree to + 4 degrees, but I have seen Mercedes cars with up to +10 degrees specified. Higher caster settings give a little more straight-line stability, while lower settings make the steering lighter and the car tend to turn easier. Caster settings that are incorrect by a few degrees from one side of the vehicle to the other usually indicate bent parts.



Last comes toe. This refers to the in or out turn of the wheels from a straight-ahead position. In the past, most vehicles would have "toe in"; the front of the wheels were turned slightly inwards. This gave good vehicle stability, and as vehicle speed increased, the tire resistance would cause the toe to change to the straight-ahead position. Now, some front wheel drive cars use offset wheels (the bolt flange is not positioned in the center of the width of the wheel) and different wheel bearing positions that require toe settings to be "out". As the vehicle drives, the loads placed on the tires cause the wheels to turn in to the straight-ahead position. Toe-in or toe-out, the factory specifications should be followed closely. Toe out on a rear axle can cause unpleasant spins during braking or on corners, especially on wet or icy roads. Again, solid rear axles should have a 0 toe reading or the axle is bent or out of position in the vehicle.



Incorrect toe settings caused by wear or impacts can wear tires quickly. I have seen a new tire worn out in only a few hundred kilometres because the toe setting was out dramatically. Even if it is out a little, tire life is shortened, and tires are expensive. Toe is checked during a wheel alignment and should be adjusted if it is out of specifications.



Camber, caster, and toe settings are all checked during a wheel alignment. Having and alignment done once or twice a year will prolong your tire life and prevent your vehicle from "dancing" all over the road.





from http://www.canadiandriver.com/articles/jk/at_010808.htm

95EXRv6
10/01/2003, 10h13
sorry .. on a roll here ...



http://www.tuningconcept.com/html/tc44_alignment_101.html

Supernaut
10/01/2003, 14h14
Nice posts, don't have time to read it all right now :D




Higher caster settings give a little more straight-line stability, while lower settings make the steering lighter and the car tend to turn easier. Caster settings that are incorrect by a few degrees from one side of the vehicle to the other usually indicate bent parts.



Also, more caster equals better self-centering of the steering when you turn.



If you're wondering what caster is exactly, it's the angle of the steering axis from the vertical, when viewed from the side:



http://www.gmecca.com/byorc/images/cambercaster.gif

95EXRv6
26/03/2003, 06h57
I'm bumping this cause the suspension questions are starting to pop up on every 3rd post ...



IF YOU WANNA DROP YOUR RIDE, before asking any questions ... read above ... ^^^^^^^^^



understand what you are doing to your ride first ... seriously !!

Daso
26/03/2003, 09h19
should be sticky in the General forum..... as well as here.

Mohawkboom
26/03/2003, 13h43
--What has more effect on my ride and performance? Springs or Shocks? Both?



Now, addressing the question of which has more of an effect on the ride. Well, the spring. But the shock has an equal effect WHEN you have the spring. Heres how that works. You know how I talked about the spring absorbing the shock and compressing, and the shock matching it to stop the compression? Well, the same principal applies going into, say, a hard 75 degree turn at 75. What happens? Your spring compresses. You can certainly tell on stock springs, its less obvious with aftermarket springs though. But anyhow, in this instance, the quicker that shock can come out of compression and stop the springs compression, the more even your car will remain. Thus less body roll, and a still yet centered center of gravity. This equals control. Good control. Cant just the spring do this? Yes yes, of course, but even when you put that spring on stock shocks and head to the twisties, your car will still roll. Not as much, of course, but it will fluxuate. You lack evenness and clarity and preciseness. Your crux lies in how well that shock will respond.









Total Bullshizzit..



The Shock absorbers in now way lessen body roll. Only the springs and anti-sway bars can change the amount a suspension will give. The shocks simply dampen or slow the sped at which the rolling occurs.



Just because there's alot of info and it's well laid out..doesn't make this all true..



Read through it in a general sense. don't take it word for word

Rotary exp 7
26/03/2003, 14h40
Originally posted by mohawkboom

Just because there's alot of info and it's well laid out..doesn't make this all true..



Read through it in a general sense. don't take it word for word



I agree some things are accurate but others are definately arguable.





however as far as the dampening reducing roll yes it does and you have provided proof of this yourself:




The shocks simply dampen or slow the sped at which the rolling occurs.



Transcient events (ex: slalom) are never very long. Therefore it is safe to say that if you are making the suspension work for XXX seconds, the stiffer shock will not have traveled as much distance as the shock with the lower dampening rate, resulting in less body roll.

Mohawkboom
26/03/2003, 15h21
the difference in body roll and final spring compression is matter of 10th's of a second. It's enough to physically feel like it's not rolling as much but it still is. for a very very quick turn it might very mildly reduce roll but it would negligable.

Rotary exp 7
26/03/2003, 17h32
Lets look at the physics involved when a car beggins to roll. there is a moment created in the direction of the outside of the turn. A physical representation of this moment is the force that is raising the part of the car at the inner side of the turn and pushing down on the outer side.



Now on the inner side (the one going up), you have a force (moment) that is pusing up on the car, the spring is also pushing up on the car, then you have the shock and the sprung weight of the car exerting a downwards force. The higher the dampening rate of the shock, the less overall force is available to raise that side of the car.



Looking at the outer side of the car (side going down), you have the force (moment) and the sprung weight of the car pushing down, the springs create an upwards force once again, and the shock is also creating a force in the upwards direction. Once again a higher dampening rate reduces the overall force which is pusing the car downwards, reducing the deflection of the sprung weigh from its steady state plane.

Supernaut
26/03/2003, 18h15
Yes, shocks can and do have an effect on body roll in transient events. What would be totally false is thinking they have an effect on steady-state turns like the skidpad.