Need help for Honda civic stalling problems

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scirocco16valve

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I'm having some stalling issues with my civic after replacing the old y7 to a rebuilt y8 with the OEM P2P ECU.
It idles fine at start up and even when warmed up.
The problem is when you drive and come to a stop and press in the clutch, the idle drops to like 200 rpms and 90% of the time it stalls. It will restart up and idle fine afterwards.

I have cleaned the IACV, checked the timing and idle speeds with the IACV disconnected, headlight on and A/C on and is within specs.

Anyone have any ideas?
 
Ether up ur idle abit so it doesnt drop to stalling point. ive also herd climping ur fuel return alittle helps with this problem.
 
essait dans ton entrée , une fois le moteur chaud, de peser sur la clutch...

sa le fait ? p-e un probleme de vacuum
 
nicestintegra said:
change your ecu to see if thats the problem
Click to expand...

Anyone have an extra P2P laying around?

Dr3w said:
Ether up ur idle abit so it doesnt drop to stalling point. ive also herd climping ur fuel return alittle helps with this problem.
Click to expand...

Okay I wilturn up the idle screw on top of the throttle and see if it stalls still.




Fid3 said:
essait dans ton entrée , une fois le moteur chaud, de peser sur la clutch...

sa le fait ? p-e un probleme de vacuum
Click to expand...

Okay i will try and let you know what happens.

I have already checked for vacuum leaks but found nothing.
 
^ dont forget to jump ur service connecter before uping ur idle if not nothing will happen.
 
Dr3w said:
^ dont forget to jump ur service connecter before uping ur idle if not nothing will happen.
Click to expand...

In the honda manual it notes to jump the blue plug when adjusting the timing, but it does not note to jump the wire when adjusting the idle 11-220.
so all the time adjusting the idle without the jumper in place is useless??
 
Last edited:
I was thinking about this last night.

Could my lightweight aluminum flywheel of 8lbs doesn't have enough mass to keep the idle once the throttle plate is closed?
 
you run a lightweight flywheel on a stock y8? ... pretty much sure this is your problem. those flywheel dont have inertia at all. even if you had 150whp all motor y8 it would be better to have a stock flywheel.

had a Xact 8pound flywheel on my last turbo built and i removed it after not even a week of driving. hated this bitch my rpm was droppin so ****ing fast and i was loosing all my chances of building boost fast.

the best flywheel on those engines is a stock one resurfaced!
 
FRankyB16 said:
you run a lightweight flywheel on a stock y8? ... pretty much sure this is your problem. those flywheel dont have inertia at all. even if you had 150whp all motor y8 it would be better to have a stock flywheel.

had a Xact 8pound flywheel on my last turbo built and i removed it after not even a week of driving. hated this bitch my rpm was droppin so ****ing fast and i was loosing all my chances of building boost fast.

the best flywheel on those engines is a stock one resurfaced!
Click to expand...

well right now it is stock and my plan was to have it boosted as well.

first stage to get the Y8 in and running perfectly and stage 2 was to drop the turbo kit in.
 
The flywheel has nothing to do with it. It is easier for the motor to keep spinning (uses less power) with less rotational inertia. Also, you build boost faster with a lighter flywheel, but you don't stay in boost if you get on the clutch for too long, aka you shift slow, aka drive on the street. For a turbo car, a super light flywheel isn't the best option if the car is driven on the street.

And your mechanical timing should be at 16 degrees. Not 12. THERE is a problem.
 
S-spec said:
The flywheel has nothing to do with it. It is easier for the motor to keep spinning (uses less power) with less rotational inertia. Also, you build boost faster with a lighter flywheel, but you don't stay in boost if you get on the clutch for too long, aka you shift slow, aka drive on the street. For a turbo car, a super light flywheel isn't the best option if the car is driven on the street.

And your mechanical timing should be at 16 degrees. Not 12. THERE is a problem.
Click to expand...

then why my 50 trim was boostin 7psi@3500rpm with a lighweight flywheel, and same turbo on a stock flywheel i was able to get full boost of 12psi@3500rpm?

and ignition timing setting is at 12~2 degrees BTDC at idle. NOT 16degrees. stop giving wrong info without reading your shop manual dude!

d16y7y8timingspec.jpg
 
Dr3w said:
U have to jump ur service connecter before changing ur idle so it keeps it i note.. if not it will just revert it self back with iacv correction.
Click to expand...

I see and also you need to reset the ECU by removing the fuse 7.5 amps. correct?

I'm new to this honda tuning stuff so please be patient with me guys.
 
My baqd for the 16 degrees. You are correct for the 12 degrees. I forgot about the combustion chamber quench areas inherent on the Y7/Y8 heads. It is 16 degrees for most other, if not all other Honda motors. :bigup:

As for your motor making more boost with a flywheel, I have NEVER heard of anything of that sort, or read about anything like that before you mentioned it. There is a difference between making more boost and peaking at a lower RPM. You have to understand that boost is just air that did not get into the engine. With a lighter flywheel you rev up faster. More boost does NOT always get you more power.
 
S-spec said:
My baqd for the 16 degrees. You are correct for the 12 degrees. I forgot about the combustion chamber quench areas inherent on the Y7/Y8 heads. It is 16 degrees for most other, if not all other Honda motors. :bigup:

As for your motor making more boost with a flywheel, I have NEVER heard of anything of that sort, or read about anything like that before you mentioned it. There is a difference between making more boost and peaking at a lower RPM. You have to understand that boost is just air that did not get into the engine. With a lighter flywheel you rev up faster. More boost does NOT always get you more power.
Click to expand...

still need help in solving the low idle once throttle is released and stalling at stop signs/lights
 
Dr3w said:
U have to jump ur service connecter before changing ur idle so it keeps it i note.. if not it will just revert it self back with iacv correction.
Click to expand...

okay i upped the idle but still it stalls.

can it be i have a short ram air, cams, and aluminum flywheel causing this?

i need to have this daily driver running in top condition this winter.
 
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