LS vtec questions. Help

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VtecMagic

VtecMagic

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I'm sure there has been a million posts about this already.
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if i have a modified b18c1 already.

What other parts would i need to build a ls vtec ?
Which is better b18c5 or ls/vtec ?
Does anyone know a place that builds reliable ls/vtecs ?
What's the best tranny, head and ecu for the build.
and how much does it usually costs ?

i wanna build n/a all the way.

if you have any info that could help me you are more than
welcome to share it.
 
VtecMagic said:
I'm sure there has been a million posts about this already.
-------------------------------------------------------

if i have a modified b18c1 already.

What other parts would i need to build a ls vtec ?
Which is better b18c5 or ls/vtec ?
Does anyone know a place that builds reliable ls/vtecs ?
What's the best tranny, head and ecu for the build.
and how much does it usually costs ?

i wanna build n/a all the way.

if you have any info that could help me you are more than
welcome to share it.
Click to expand...
If you don't want to spend too much money, use your GSR head and find yourself an LS block and build it.

Ideal tranny would be an SIR or type-R with LSD.
I would do a LS/VTEC over a B18C5 anyday.
The ideal head would be an ITR(B18C5) head
As for the ECU, you'll need something to make a program(AEM, Hondata,etc...)

P.S. We don't do motor swaps or LS/Vtecs at RMR, so I don't have a price for you. Auto Laminar does most of the LS/Vtecs and B20/Vtecs, I believe the number is in the shops section.

Hope that helped.:)
 
It depends what you want, do you want to go faster for the next 3 years or a bit slower for 10 years...

I'm personnally a fan of LsVtec, it's (unique)...I really suggest you go read this article before making any decisions.

A good friend of mine is owner of 96 LsVtec, ls tranny, stock cams, stock b16a1 head, itr pistons (not bolt on Ls block), good driver...we raced Teg969 turbo integra and it was pretty much even considering we had an extra passenger...different powerband, anyway im going OT...take 3-4 minutes to read the article...

imo: if you had an ls block in your car, the first thing id do is lsvtec, but since you have a GSR...i say bore kit.
 
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Go for ls-vtec
have a good bottom and have the job well done
and thats it... 2000-4000 $ and u have a pretty nice machine !


jsparent...
on verra si ton engine est de taille vs celle de teg696 et de la mienne cette ete !!!!

see u at the track
 
thanks for the help.

well, i know b18c5 is less problems in the long run , most of them need a rebuilt
anyway.
the only thing that's tough with a b18c5 is that the swap costs 5000$ +++
i heard that a ls/vtec is ALOT problems if it isn't built properly. A buddy of mine suggests that it's just a headache.

which 1 has more power , and how much more power is it ? is it a noticible
difference. I've sat in a few type-r's before. Never really got to exeperience
the power of an ls/vtec
 
have a good bottom ??
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what is a good block to use for this ? b18b ?

Hondata stage 2 w/o boost is like 500$+tax ? Shane would know this.
 
VtecMagic said:
have a good bottom ??
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------


what is a good block to use for this ? b18b ?

Hondata stage 2 w/o boost is like 500$+tax ? Shane would know this.
Click to expand...
The Hondata S200 goes for around $500-600 if I'm not mistaken, I bought mine used so I don't really know the exact price.

B18B is usually the block you would use.

Get the block checked out to see if everything is in good shape(bearings, cylinders). Ideally change your pistons for ITR +0.25 or similar and get the block honed by a specialist. You will also need work done to the LS rods to fit these ITR pistons.
 
VtecMagic said:
which 1 has more power , and how much more power is it ? is it a noticible difference. I've sat in a few type-r's before. Never really got to exeperience the power of an ls/vtec
Click to expand...

I had a 95 GSR, it was a mid 14 car all day. When I drive the LsVtec I can feel the difference, more torque...more displacement. In stock trim, the B18B has 35cc more displacement than the B18C1, the B18C5 and 239cc more than the B16A1! This is the primary reason why the non-VTEC motor exhibits more of the bottom and mid-range torque than each of the VTEC models. And it pulls between 7000-8000 range where the GSR is dying.

Power: LsVtec owns ITR
Longevity: ITR owns LsVtec
 
jsparent said:
I had a 95 GSR, it was a mid 14 car all day. When I drive the LsVtec I can feel the difference, more torque...more displacement. In stock trim, the B18B has 35cc more displacement than the B18C1, the B18C5 and 239cc more than the B16A1! This is the primary reason why the non-VTEC motor exhibits more of the bottom and mid-range torque than each of the VTEC models. And it pulls between 7000-8000 range where the GSR is dying.

Power: LsVtec owns ITR
Longevity: ITR owns LsVtec
Click to expand...
I totally agree with you. It sounds like you know a lot of people with LS/vtec setups, have you heard of any serious problems come up? I'm curious to hear cause the motor I had built for me is going in on monday. I don't think I will have any problems because I did everything the right way(ITR oversized pistons, honed block, adjustable cam gears, hondata, every possible gasket, etc..) and I won't be reving it to 9,000RPM so I don't see what reliability issues I could possibly have. I doubt I will make over 200whp so my rods should be able to handle it.
 
hondata , adj.cam gears , oversized itr pistons ..... the best recipe for
ls/vtec and still not 200Hp ?



Shane what are you expecting with your setup
 
VtecMagic said:
hondata , adj.cam gears , oversized itr pistons ..... the best recipe for
ls/vtec and still not 200Hp ?



Shane what are you expecting with your setup
Click to expand...
I'm really not too sure. I'm either putting ITR(2001) cams or skunk2 stage 1 cams. The skunk2 cams are supposed to make more power than the ITR cams.

So depending on what I do, I expect between 185 and 205 wheel HP. As for the torque, I have no idea.

As soon as my cams are installed, I'm going to get the car tuned on a dyno, I'll post up the results as soon as I have them (probably early spring).

Getting to 200whp is harder than people think with an N/A 1.8L
 
Shane54 said:
I totally agree with you. It sounds like you know a lot of people with LS/vtec setups, have you heard of any serious problems come up? I'm curious to hear cause the motor I had built for me is going in on monday. I don't think I will have any problems because I did everything the right way(ITR oversized pistons, honed block, adjustable cam gears, hondata, every possible gasket, etc..) and I won't be reving it to 9,000RPM so I don't see what reliability issues I could possibly have. I doubt I will make over 200whp so my rods should be able to handle it.
Click to expand...

Les rods du moteur LS sont solide, j'en ai jamais vu de mes propres yeux mais je suis certain qui sont capables de prendre 200 WHP. Cependant, il y a un risque et je déteste les risques quand vient le temps d'exploiter ta bagnole à fond. J'opterais pour des rods ARP, plus légère and très solide...say hello to 9000 RPM. As for the cams, well it depends what are you plans with your valvesprings and retainers (obviously)...but I'd personnaly go with skunk2 stage 2 just to be different and FASTER...cause that is what you are looking for after all :dunno:

As for the problems with the block, well after a year of intensive shifting at 8.5-9k on a completely stock block...we started to loose compression, we were definitely loosing torque and it was showing at the strip...from 14.4 to 14.9-15.0...MPH went from 97-98 to 94-95...

So, we decide to bring the block at NoRedline located in St-Jean I believe...I have the bill of what was done on the block, I'll post it later...very interesting.
 
jsparent said:
Les rods du moteur LS sont solide, j'en ai jamais vu de mes propres yeux mais je suis certain qui sont capables de prendre 200 WHP. Cependant, il y a un risque et je déteste les risques quand vient le temps d'exploiter ta bagnole à fond. J'opterais pour des rods ARP, plus légère and très solide...say hello to 9000 RPM. As for the cams, well it depends what are you plans with your valvesprings and retainers (obviously)...but I'd personnaly go with skunk2 stage 2 just to be different and FASTER...cause that is what you are looking for after all :dunno:

As for the problems with the block, well after a year of intensive shifting at 8.5-9k on a completely stock block...we started to loose compression, we were definitely loosing torque and it was showing at the strip...from 14.4 to 14.9-15.0...MPH went from 97-98 to 94-95...

So, we decide to bring the block at NoRedline located in St-Jean I believe...I have the bill of what was done on the block, I'll post it later...very interesting.
Click to expand...
cool, merci pour l'info J-S.

La seul raison que j'hesite avec les cams stage 2 est parce que je veut que ca soit "streetable"(no rough idle).

Also, the ITR cams are much cheaper:)
 
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