Lower_E30
New member
Had the car for 4 years now, i still love is as much as the day i bought it, but i need to start a new project and build something new. Id be open to trades, especially looking for a e36 m3 as a new project. I know this is not the right time to sell a car, but it would be the good time to start a new project so i'll try anyways.
1988 327is MtechII
10,000$ Firm
• M20 2.7l •
-From a m20b25 engine
- 325i pistons
- 325e rods
- 325e crank
- Block machined down approx 2mm *
- Adjustable cam gear
- Stock head gasket
- Stock top end (intake manifold, head, valves, cam)
- Supersprint replica headers > stock 325i exhaust, cats removed
- M30 AFM mated to stock airbox w/intake funnel, drilled lower box, stock filter
- 19lb injectors from M30
- polished throttle body
- MarkD 93 and 91 octane chip 7k rpm limit
- 12lb custom flywheel (made from a 2002 flywheel, lightened, and 325i ring gear pressed on)
- 3,73 Limited-slip differential
- H&R Race "Group G" springs
- Shortened and revalved Bilstein Sport shocks
- E36 M3 steering rack
- M3 Cab mounts
- M3 front strut tabs/links
- Original paint (other than front of car)
- OEM North American spec M Tech II bodywork
- Shadowline Trim
- Euro Ellipsoids
- Euro Grills
- Euro Rear plate filler
- Custom german made cluster
- Chrome Gauge cluster rings
- Momo steering wheel
- Black roofliner
- Black rear speaker shelf
- ZHP illuminated shift knob
- Custom X brace underneath the car (although it is very low... scrapes often).
The bad:
- The car was in an accident in it's earlier life, only affected area was the lower rad support which has been changed.
- The sunroof stopped stopping at its middle point when the roof is closed. So it goes from fully open to vent without stopping and vice versa. Never got around to fixing it, as it wasn't something hindering me from track useage.
-There is a stone chip on the A pillar on the passenger side of the car
-Front end could use a respray (stone chips on hood and fenders)
Questionable points:
- The car is missing some stuff. A lot of wiring and such was left out in the act to get the car as light as possible, The car does not have: Cruise control + wiring for it, AC deleted (I deleted it well with a block off plate), Check control panel + wiring, heated seat wiring
- The car used to have a BMW CD Changer, but somehow the door got damaged and I never fixed it. Will be given with the car.
Good points:
- Seats are problem free, frames are solid, just tightened the bolts on the seat backs recently. (They are seats from an m3 which i had reupholstered with M-tech fabric)
-Car has braided stainless steel brakes lines all around
-Everything from after the headers was changed with OEM muffler 2 years ago (has lifetime warranty)
- Tie rods, ball joints, brake fluid flush, timing belts, etc has been done in the last 30 000km
- All brake ducts and shields under the car present.
- The Key matches every lock on the car.
- Stock radio/speakers, no butchered up harness.
- Handbrake works mint.
- All OEM BMW windows.
-oil filter housing rotated to facilitate easier oil filter changes
More about the 2.7 M20:
*The problem with cutting the block down so much is it messes with the timing, which is why the motor has an adjustable cam gear to compensate for it. There are other ways to do it, and this is the second best way to do it... best being having new custom forged pistons made. The shape of the piston has to be similar to the shape of the cylinder head's combustion chamber, so it has the proper 'squish' and when it ignites the spark it gives force evenly. In comparison, people who do the 325i head on a 325e block is one of the worst, because not only is the compression lower, the squish is wrong, and it isn't as efficient of a motor compared to one with proper built one. Some people say the diesel crankshaft is better than the 325e crank, but I think Metric Mechanic in the US has reported some snapped Diesel crankshafts along the way, so I knew the 325e crank would be a much more reliable solution.
The motor has about 100k on it... and still runs very strong. It runs much stronger than a 2.5. Top speeds like 150+ are similar, as it is only a stock cam. It currently has a MarkD 93 octane chip in it(i also have a 91 octane chip available) . It also has an M30 AFM, mated to a stock airbox with a custom air intake funnel, 19lb injectors, 12lb lightweight flywheel, headers, and no cat (sounds awesome). The engine has a static compression ratio of around 10 to 1 (versus the stock 8.8).
****BBS RF's are not included with the car, will sort out a deal with potential buyers for wheel choice
more pictures here:
http://www.kijiji.ca/v-view-details.html?requestSource=b&adId=1100966539
1988 327is MtechII
10,000$ Firm
• M20 2.7l •
-From a m20b25 engine
- 325i pistons
- 325e rods
- 325e crank
- Block machined down approx 2mm *
- Adjustable cam gear
- Stock head gasket
- Stock top end (intake manifold, head, valves, cam)
- Supersprint replica headers > stock 325i exhaust, cats removed
- M30 AFM mated to stock airbox w/intake funnel, drilled lower box, stock filter
- 19lb injectors from M30
- polished throttle body
- MarkD 93 and 91 octane chip 7k rpm limit
- 12lb custom flywheel (made from a 2002 flywheel, lightened, and 325i ring gear pressed on)
- 3,73 Limited-slip differential
- H&R Race "Group G" springs
- Shortened and revalved Bilstein Sport shocks
- E36 M3 steering rack
- M3 Cab mounts
- M3 front strut tabs/links
- Original paint (other than front of car)
- OEM North American spec M Tech II bodywork
- Shadowline Trim
- Euro Ellipsoids
- Euro Grills
- Euro Rear plate filler
- Custom german made cluster
- Chrome Gauge cluster rings
- Momo steering wheel
- Black roofliner
- Black rear speaker shelf
- ZHP illuminated shift knob
- Custom X brace underneath the car (although it is very low... scrapes often).
The bad:
- The car was in an accident in it's earlier life, only affected area was the lower rad support which has been changed.
- The sunroof stopped stopping at its middle point when the roof is closed. So it goes from fully open to vent without stopping and vice versa. Never got around to fixing it, as it wasn't something hindering me from track useage.
-There is a stone chip on the A pillar on the passenger side of the car
-Front end could use a respray (stone chips on hood and fenders)
Questionable points:
- The car is missing some stuff. A lot of wiring and such was left out in the act to get the car as light as possible, The car does not have: Cruise control + wiring for it, AC deleted (I deleted it well with a block off plate), Check control panel + wiring, heated seat wiring
- The car used to have a BMW CD Changer, but somehow the door got damaged and I never fixed it. Will be given with the car.
Good points:
- Seats are problem free, frames are solid, just tightened the bolts on the seat backs recently. (They are seats from an m3 which i had reupholstered with M-tech fabric)
-Car has braided stainless steel brakes lines all around
-Everything from after the headers was changed with OEM muffler 2 years ago (has lifetime warranty)
- Tie rods, ball joints, brake fluid flush, timing belts, etc has been done in the last 30 000km
- All brake ducts and shields under the car present.
- The Key matches every lock on the car.
- Stock radio/speakers, no butchered up harness.
- Handbrake works mint.
- All OEM BMW windows.
-oil filter housing rotated to facilitate easier oil filter changes
More about the 2.7 M20:
*The problem with cutting the block down so much is it messes with the timing, which is why the motor has an adjustable cam gear to compensate for it. There are other ways to do it, and this is the second best way to do it... best being having new custom forged pistons made. The shape of the piston has to be similar to the shape of the cylinder head's combustion chamber, so it has the proper 'squish' and when it ignites the spark it gives force evenly. In comparison, people who do the 325i head on a 325e block is one of the worst, because not only is the compression lower, the squish is wrong, and it isn't as efficient of a motor compared to one with proper built one. Some people say the diesel crankshaft is better than the 325e crank, but I think Metric Mechanic in the US has reported some snapped Diesel crankshafts along the way, so I knew the 325e crank would be a much more reliable solution.
The motor has about 100k on it... and still runs very strong. It runs much stronger than a 2.5. Top speeds like 150+ are similar, as it is only a stock cam. It currently has a MarkD 93 octane chip in it(i also have a 91 octane chip available) . It also has an M30 AFM, mated to a stock airbox with a custom air intake funnel, 19lb injectors, 12lb lightweight flywheel, headers, and no cat (sounds awesome). The engine has a static compression ratio of around 10 to 1 (versus the stock 8.8).
****BBS RF's are not included with the car, will sort out a deal with potential buyers for wheel choice
more pictures here:
http://www.kijiji.ca/v-view-details.html?requestSource=b&adId=1100966539