The Official plans and project 2011 Thread!

8900rpm avec internest stock? Hmmm... je me demande comment ça se fait que ça a sauté! Les S54 est pas SI PIRE que ça, faut faire attention mais c'est pas non plus une bombe à retardement là! On a des tonnes de E46 stock aux évènements du Club BMW ou Audi, et jamais de trouble. Encore une fois, ce sont les voitures modifiées qui ont le plus de trouble.

Belle acquisition FifthGear!
 
I have some details in this thread:

http://montrealracing.com/forums/showthread.php?749067-My-190E-2.3-16-vintage-racer-project

In short, I'm building up a 190E 2.3-16 into a vintage racer for VARAC Group 70+ to start with. The car is stripped out and in the shop getting a custom 6-point cage welded in. The custom coilover suspension is done. The custom wheels are on the way. The Brembo big brakes are on. The diff is off being rebuilt for more lock-up.

Finally got all the wiring sorted. What a mess. The ABS is also working again. It was very frustrating running Tremblant in the rain last summer when ABS kept kicking in and out randomly. Turned out to be a combination of a bad relay (easy fix), low voltage (required a new alternator), and a loose connection in one of the ABS sensors. Sounds simple, but it was a major PITA to track down the source of the problem.

Most important, I've replaced all 4 rear subframe bushings and had a welder repair two hairline cracks that developed in the rear subframe. The cracks allowed the subrame to flex in such a way that the rear wheels were developing toe-out during hard cornering. That explains why the car was undriveable last summer!
 
Gtfour said:
Vite vite comme ça elle a l'air pas mal stock, elle a plus l'air d'une voiture de rue qu'une voiture de track. J'ai pas vu beaucoup de voiture de track avec ce "splitter"


1) C'est quoi la différence entre une flywheel stock VS aftermarket?

2) Tu inspectes ça comment un harmonic damper?


Pis la voiture que tu as vu à Sanair, ça fait depuis qu'il a swappé S54 son E36 que je lui dis de baisser son rev limiter à 8000-8200rpm au lieu de 8900rpm avec ces internes stock...C'était assez prévisible que ça durerait pas longtemps son affaire.
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1) Reconsidering--- quite a bit of pros and cons data to go over on Lighweight flywheels.
Driveline balancing is key here...especially at high rpm.

2) Checking harmonic damper, without a mechanic :
(Still ,would strongly recommend a professional opinion.)

Source: http://www.e46fanatics.com/forum/showpost.php?p=12625514&postcount=2

With 8 years and 100k miles on your car, it wouldn't hurt anything other than your wallet to replace all the rubber bits. The part itself is rather expensive but the labor to replace it isn't too bad. Mine was shot at 90k miles although I'm sure the presence of a SC'er probably reduced its service life. While not easy to diagnose, things you might notice without removing it from the car would be the rubber ring starting to pull out or a wobble in the crank pulley (shine a flashlight down at the pulley while the engine is running and have someone goose the throttle - in neutral of course). When mine failed, there was a very noticeable wobble. Replacing the damper definitely reduced the vibration I was experiencing but it wasn't the source of the problem. More on that in a bit....


Source:
http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=326722&page=4

Noticed a clank clank noise and immediatley inspected. Found the bolts that secure the dampener to the crank to be loose

Not sure how or why, they were all new hardware and torqued to spec. I am going to red locktite them in place today.


Personally, I would change it anyway.Rubber ages dries up and becomes brittle.

Preventative maintenance. *tu*


Dave S
 
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Shardik said:
1) Reconsidering--- quite a bit of pros and cons data to go over on Lighweight flywheels.
Driveline balancing is key here...especially at high rpm.

2) Checking harmonic damper, without a mechanic :
(Still ,would strongly recommend a professional opinion.)

Source: http://www.e46fanatics.com/forum/showpost.php?p=12625514&postcount=2

With 8 years and 100k miles on your car, it wouldn't hurt anything other than your wallet to replace all the rubber bits. The part itself is rather expensive but the labor to replace it isn't too bad. Mine was shot at 90k miles although I'm sure the presence of a SC'er probably reduced its service life. While not easy to diagnose, things you might notice without removing it from the car would be the rubber ring starting to pull out or a wobble in the crank pulley (shine a flashlight down at the pulley while the engine is running and have someone goose the throttle - in neutral of course). When mine failed, there was a very noticeable wobble. Replacing the damper definitely reduced the vibration I was experiencing but it wasn't the source of the problem. More on that in a bit....


Source:
http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=326722&page=4

Noticed a clank clank noise and immediatley inspected. Found the bolts that secure the dampener to the crank to be loose

Not sure how or why, they were all new hardware and torqued to spec. I am going to red locktite them in place today.


Personally, I would change it anyway.Rubber ages dries up and becomes brittle.

Preventative maintenance. *tu*


Dave S
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The main difference between aftermarket and OEM flywheel: OEM is a dual mass flywheel, it absord (with the harmonic damper) all the unwanted vibration in the crank assy.

Not sure you can really inspect an harmonic damper. If the bolts are loose, I think that you might have a bigger vibration problem somewhere else since those bolts are torque to 340lb-pi. And if the damper wobble, chances are that it's already too late. The clank clank noise comes from the harmonic damper getting in contact with the little bracket you use to remove the harmonic damper, also too late if you hear that noise IMO.
 
BBQMAN said:
gonna be a lot of M3s on the track this year.
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Huntinpacks.jpg
 
Sebdavid said:
For me taking care of a car or working on it or even having work done on it by somebody else is a chore. The enjoyable part happens behind the steering wheel.
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If you know exactly what you want, have access to a decent workspace and some good tools, working on your car can be pretty enjoyable in and of itself. Having that experience often also allows you to enjoy the car more in the track, both because you better understand how it works, and because you develop the confidence tom sort out problems that might arise on the track which otherwise might bring your weekend to an end.
 
LanEvo said:
If you know exactly what you want, have access to a decent workspace and some good tools, working on your car can be pretty enjoyable in and of itself. Having that experience often also allows you to enjoy the car more in the track, both because you better understand how it works, and because you develop the confidence tom sort out problems that might arise on the track which otherwise might bring your weekend to an end.
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I use to spend a lot of time on my cars back in my car audio days, but to be honest, I barely have enough time for the track these days let alone working on the car.

I see and agree with both sides of that coin.
 
I agree this is the case for other people, but I can't find any enjoyment in working on a car. To each his own! Of course I learned how to change brake pads or rotors because I might need to do that at the track.
 
Sebdavid said:
I agree this is the case for other people, but I can't find any enjoyment in working on a car. To each his own! Of course I learned how to change brake pads or rotors because I might need to do that at the track.
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Such a "pretty" boy.... Don't forget your finger towelettes.
 
Doing the work yourself save money that you can invest in more
speed... or if you just can't afford a mechanic :)
 
Sebdavid said:
I do bring gloves and shop towels and dry soap to the track, in case I have to, like, touch something else than the steering wheel.
ivy-queen.jpg
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Seb, your gona need more than just gloves, shop towels and dry soap if you touch that thing. I'd leave her to Carl and his "+1".
 
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