Intro + forfait de CobrAAA // List of all my services available.
- Thread starter cobrAAA
- Start date
Je comprend, mais je veux que mon site web reflète la qualité de mon travail de detailer et donc, j'aime mieux rien mettre en ligne que de simplement mettre un site web cheap-looking
Le detail, c'est même dans le non-detailing haha
Oui!! Ça me fait plaisir de voir encore des voitures en ligne en fin novembre !
( J'ai même commencé à avoir des demandes dans d'autres provinces, mais malheureusement, je peux pas pas me déplacer, peut-être dans le temps de fêtes, par contre, j'irais faire un voyage au nouveau-brunswick haha!)What is detailing ?
Detailing as the word suggest is all about the small details. Some will detail a car in 45 minutes, some will detail/compound/glaze a car in 2h30. There's no clear definition of what it should be. So, to me, a properly-done car wash can be considered as a detail. To have a better idea on what we can do and what we can't, please refer to the package page in the same section.
The general opinion is that a detail involve some kind of machine paint correction. A paint correction is similar to a Zamboni doing the ice. After an ice session the ice is full of cracks. In order to have a nice ice, the zamboni cut the ice to level it. It then add a layer of water to fill the deeper cracks ( which could be compared as the glaze but in reality a glaze can't fill as deep scratch as this, so please forget it so you don't get confused too much!). In real word, with the heat generated by the rotating of the machine, the polish react to the paint and cut it by removing microns of paint. Sometimes the scratch is too deep to be removed, however by cutting the edge of the scratch, the light will not bounce back to our eyes in the same angle as it used to be giving us the impression that the scratch is no-more as noticeable as it was before.
My headlight is turning yellow, opaque, what should I do ?
In a 2010 study, CAA-Quebec proved that headlight lens affect by a very high ratio the safety on the road by not seeing as far as you should ( http://www.caaquebec.com/Nouvelles/...ng=fr&ID=6132a9e9-a85f-439b-8e1e-9ecbbe1c546f). The good news is that you can correct this problem quite easily so there's no need to buy news lens costing 200-500 dollars. Just like a clear coat, the protective layer on the headlight wears off and a full restoration is needed followed by a plastic protection to correct the problem.
We offer 2 types of solution, the polishing or the full restoration involving wet-sanding. On softer plastic, sometimes polishing is enought to correct the problem but on harder plastic( i.e: pretty much all germans car) we highly recommend to go straight to the wet-sanding.
Exemple of a polishing done on a japanese car:
http://montrealracing.com/forums/sh...your-safety!&p=7539848&viewfull=1#post7539848
Exemple of a full restoration:
http://montrealracing.com/forums/sh...your-safety!&p=7710459&viewfull=1#post7710459
Bike lens: http://montrealracing.com/forums/sh...your-safety!&p=7720423&viewfull=1#post7720423
Why 2 differents type of decontamination ?
I saw so many detailers using acid fallout to decontaminate a paint, yes it's faster, yes it act a bit like a chemical decontamination but it can also permentaly stain your paint leaving drips of acid on your paint and you clearly do not want this on your expensive paint!
It's not a secret, we can't remove 100% of the contaminant during a regular wash.Is your paint not feeling as slick as it used to be? If so, it means you have contaminants stuck in your paint. In order to remove most of it we need to look at 2 methods, the first one and the most common in the past years is the clay bar. This is what I call a mechanical decontamination that can cause marring and scratch on the paint but it's still highly recommanded. You can read an article about it here:
http://montrealracing.com/forums/sh...rre-d-argile-c-est-quoi-Clay-bar-what-it-does
The second method is what I call a chemical decontamination, it remove oxydation and small rust spot in your paint. The product is costly and that's why much detailer skip this step but it's well worth it. The product is transparent when sprayed but after a hsort time it will turn purple on contact with iron particles. This will free the pore in the paint so the wax or sealant can last longer by going deeper in the paint.
Glaze:
This product is filled with oils. The oils will temporary fill the scratches giving you the impression it was well-polished but after a month or so, the oils will disappear leaving the true condition of the paint. Most shady shop will do a compound and hide the haze/compound trails with a glaze. This product is perfect for people who attend car show and want a wet-look or for people looking for a cheap but quick shine on your car in order to sell it for exemple. Or it's a great product for in between polish.
Paint cleanser:
The paint cleanse is very similar to a glaze but some of them contains micro-abrasive that can do small correction ( 5-10%), somes replace the oils by synthetic gloss enhancer meaning it will react better with sealant than wax. In general, paint cleanse is a better product overall than a glaze.
What is a Step? :
If you saw my other threads, you probably read the terms 2-step, 1-step etc. Well, some detailer likes to name as much step as possible because you know, more the better right? So they will include the washing process as step. Well, I don't. For me, a step is the action of polishing the car once with one type of pad and one type of polish. When I switch pad/polish, this is what I call a second step. I usually can go as much as 4-5 steps for a showroom finish.
Difference between abrasive cream?
If we take a look at Meguiars, they probably have about 20 differents creams and this is only one company. It would be way too complicated to go throu every single one but to make it more simple, I regrouped these polishes in 4 family; Compound, Intensive Polish, Final polish, jeweling. The first one beeing the most abrasive. As a rule of thumb, if you start with a compound, you will at least need 2 more step to complete your paint refinishing.
What is Aquapel ?
Aquapel is a product I highly rate and use on every single detail and I coat every windows with it. Most shop will only coat the windshield and/or front windows, well this is not the case with Waxxon, you are getting full coverage of the best rain repency product on the market.
You can read this article I wrote about Aquapel: http://montrealracing.com/forums/showthread.php?775362-Article-Info-sur-AQUAPEL&highlight=aquapel
How much times does your polishing takes?
I wrote an article about this just to say that the most important thing is not the time taken but the end result :
http://montrealracing.com/forums/sh...bien-de-temps-dure-un-traitement-esth%E9tique
What should I go for? a wax, sealant or a nano-coating?
At Waxxon, we prefer the concours show car look of a wax. We try to seek all over the globe to own the only finest wax on the market. I use the highly regarded Swissvax Crystal Rock ( made by the famous Paul Dalton). We also have in our collection the best Zymol wax ; Zymol Vintage and the 8500$ Zymol Royale. Waxxon is also one of the 5 owner in the world to own a very exclusive uprated version of Raceglaze Black Label Special Reserve. This is THE wax to get for a concours-look! We also started using Definitive Wax's product, including the exclusive Mystery 89 and Number One wax. A sealant will offer a more glassy look but will sometimes repels dirt more easily and offer a slicker finish (hence why it repels dirts more easily), we use sealant like Wolfgang deep gloss. As for nano-coating, this product is more suited for people who don't take care of their car regulary, it offer a very glassy look with little warm to the paint. It will make the flake of your paint pop. No matters which products you choose, you can be assured that we strike to find only the best products for your car, no matter what the cost of the product is
http://montrealracing.com/forums/sh...iff%E9rence-entre-une-carnauba-et-un-scellant
Why should I do a refresh or Winter protection ?
Unless, you already had your car protected by a nano-coating, you should consider a winter protection detail on your car if you plan on driving your car in the salt this winter because the wax used in the summer are more suited for look than ultimate durability. This doesn't means they won't protect but maybe not as good as a highly durable protection. How ofter do I heard '' what's the point of washing/protecting my car it will get dirty within 48 hours? ''. With that thinking, no athlete should take a shower because the next day they will do sweat again ? This doesn't make sens at all. A protection will help release debris without scrathing the paint it will also be slicker meaning less debris will stick to your paint meaning it will look less dirty than it used to be and by having less debris on your paint, you will also have less calcium on your maint meaning less chance of rusting.
Your price appears to be higher than X place, why?
First of all, most place only works from 8 to 17h, 5 days a week. I don't. I offer custom hours to suit your particular need. I detailed as late as 3h am. If you are tight on times, need your car done for a car show and will only get your car back from the garage friday at 17h. I can accomode your schedule so you can have your car ready in time for your event!
Second, we have to compare apples with apples. Remember what I said about the STEP needed for a detail ? If another person is offering you a 3-step for the same price as my 1-step he is probably cutting corner in the preparation work ( decontamination, paint thickness reading, cheap wax) or maybe he is including the glaze as a step and the layer of wax as a STEP but I don't. So please make sure both package will yeild the same result because I tried as much as possible to offer A LOT more for less than what the competition ask for.
Finally, you have to think about the product used. Like I said before, most people tend to cut corners and they usually cut it in the preparation step ( no foam gun, no brush cleaning, calipers/wheels not cleaned, no chemical decontamination, no clay bar), they will use acid fallout on delicate chrome wheels, they won't use the proper machine to achieve the expected result. Not everyone go throught the troubles of measuring the thickness of the paint on every panel in order to make sure no paint get burned, I offer a complete diagnostic of your paint after the work. Take a look at the finishing step, I use quality paint cleanse like Swissvax Cleaner Fluid or Raceglaze paint cleanse instead of using nothing or a IPA solution. When it comes to the wax, I have many experience of detailer using spray wax or cheap off-the-counter cleaner wax as a finishing wax. These products have nothing in common with the Swissvax, Definitive wax, Raceglaze,Zymol etc. wax I use.
I'm winter-storing my car, it's useless to have my car detailed!
Unless your storing your car outside without a car cover, why would your car get damaged/deteriorated during winter under a nice car cover heated at 15 celcius left untouched? There's no reason for the paint to be damaged and the wax won't evaporate during the winter. If you have a proper garage, you will enjoy having your car detailed during winter so you will beat the spring rush and as soon as you put back th eplate on the car, you will enjoy a shiny ride!
By the way, just for the laught, these 2 cars are stored, for the past 2 years, outside, in the cold but with a car cover, see by yourself if these car look horribles ! http://montrealracing.com/forums/sh...kyline-GTR-condition-showroom-!-99-correction and http://montrealracing.com/forums/sh...racked-Skyline-GTR-3-step-Waxxon-wax-Detailed
I have a track car, why Should I have my car detailed? It's not worth it..
To be honest, if this car is a drift car, get smashed from time to time, interior has been stripped, I do admit your car car might not be worth detailed. However, if you own a car that you show-off at event, drive it in the street, please be aware that sometimes, if the stains is fresh it's a lot easier to clean/remove than a stains that ha sbeen left and cooked at the big sun for a full month or so! By stain, I mean the usual rubber gum track car get from tires or brake dust on fender and wheels, for exemple. What I suggest is a good polish and a nano-protection. After this, we can look at a visit every now and then after a track event ( if you can't remove it by yourself). These nano-coating will witstand higher temperature so they are the wiser protection to apply both on the paint but also on the wheels for easier cleaning.
How can I trust you?
By looking at my latest realisation, you will find out that a couple cars have already passed by. I'm working out to have a great reputation and I strike for it as I do it for the passion or what we call '' the love of the game''. I also worked for the last 3 years at the Montreal Autoshow driving and working on brand new car where no errors is tolerated ( how would they replace the car if it happens?). I also worked at car rental so I'm used to move car around. Finally, I know how it is, you have a tuned car with a triple plate clutch, a 700whp car? Don't worry, I drove triple plate clutch before. For me, it's a honor to polish a car, I have no other intention, beside the detailing, with your car.
Do you test the product you use?
This one of most enjoyable things about detailing ; testing new products. I'm member on detailing around the world in the research of the latest products that would yield me a better result. I mostly use my car and family's car to do my own test before using the product on your car making sure the claim made by the manufacturer is true.
Waxxon is also very close with other well-known detailer and company and test beta products for them giving them feedback to come out with a good products. I won't disclose these companies but we are very proud and happy to do so.
Have a read at this thread, it's actually my personal car: http://montrealracing.com/forums/sh...Wolfgang-Fuzion-wax-aquapel-Interior-clean-up
Do you offer mobile , in-house detailing ?
I do, but let just say that I rather work in my own environement as I have everything close ot me and feel more relaxed. At the moment, I'm located in Montreal. However, if, for whatever reason, you would prefer to have your car detailed at your place, please make sure there's proper lighting, wide space ( ideally, it would be possible to open both doors without rubbing the doors), have access to electric wall plug and water hose.
The distance is also not a problem, we went as far as driving a good 1000 kms to detail cars.
By polishing, we actually remove some paint, how long can I do it before the coat goes too thin ?
It will vary from paint to paint as every manufacture use a differents process/quality of paint for their various cars and thickness can have great variation between panel but as a rule of thumb, I would say you can have your car polished 10 times ( 2-step polish) before it get risky.
Why shouldn't I use product silicone-based, like Armor-All for exemple ?
Most silicone-based product are very greasy leaving a nasty finish on your tires or interior. It act like a glue meaning it will look shiny the first day but then after it will attract all the dirts making your coated surface dirtier than it should. It will also create a not-so-good reaction with the UV rays ; interior products will crack sooner, tires will turn brownish quickly.
My leather is cracked, what can I do ?
Unfortunately, nothing can be done. We can prevent the crack to go any further but a leather conditionner won't resolve this problem. I recommend you ask your local upholstery shop or ask me as I know one. We also have to be cautious with leather products as some will dehydrate even more your leather. Ideally, a leather should be cleaned, at least, every 6-12 months followed by a good leather conditionner treatment.
My paint is changing color, red turns pink, white get cream white, black miss depth, why?
This is a result of the damage of the UV rays attacking your clear coat. The clear coat is oxyded. Most of the time, only a polishing will remove this oxydation but some times we need to go deeper and wet-sand the affected area ( but then, we have to make sure there's enought paint to do it) in order to complete remove this layer of oxydation. This is why it's important to apply a layer of protection every now in then so that instead of attacking your clear coat, the UV will attack your wax or sealant.
How many times should I do a detailing ?
The honest answer is when you feel your car is missing that detailed touch or that shiny look! As simple. Usually, one polish a year is sufficent to keep the car in very good condition and have your car waxed 3 times a year. If you like that just-waxed-look, we could meet every month for a coat of wax! Everything is possible, you are the boss.
Where can I buy these high-quality products?
I'm offering detailing class if you would like to have a class tailored to your need where we try differents products in my arsenal to find the one you prefer and then I will show you how to use them and where to buy it or I could order them also.
Why should I have my brand new car detailed? It's perfect, isn't it?
Simple answer; to start off on a good base, understand the proper need for a well-maintened car and I saw brand new car worth more than 100 000$ in such a lame condition, I feel bad every time I see it; It's not because it's brand new that it's in perfect condition. For a long answer, pelase click the thread below.
http://montrealracing.com/forums/sh...eccesary!-Nettoyer-une-nouvelle-auto-vraiment
Detailing as the word suggest is all about the small details. Some will detail a car in 45 minutes, some will detail/compound/glaze a car in 2h30. There's no clear definition of what it should be. So, to me, a properly-done car wash can be considered as a detail. To have a better idea on what we can do and what we can't, please refer to the package page in the same section.
The general opinion is that a detail involve some kind of machine paint correction. A paint correction is similar to a Zamboni doing the ice. After an ice session the ice is full of cracks. In order to have a nice ice, the zamboni cut the ice to level it. It then add a layer of water to fill the deeper cracks ( which could be compared as the glaze but in reality a glaze can't fill as deep scratch as this, so please forget it so you don't get confused too much!). In real word, with the heat generated by the rotating of the machine, the polish react to the paint and cut it by removing microns of paint. Sometimes the scratch is too deep to be removed, however by cutting the edge of the scratch, the light will not bounce back to our eyes in the same angle as it used to be giving us the impression that the scratch is no-more as noticeable as it was before.
My headlight is turning yellow, opaque, what should I do ?
In a 2010 study, CAA-Quebec proved that headlight lens affect by a very high ratio the safety on the road by not seeing as far as you should ( http://www.caaquebec.com/Nouvelles/...ng=fr&ID=6132a9e9-a85f-439b-8e1e-9ecbbe1c546f). The good news is that you can correct this problem quite easily so there's no need to buy news lens costing 200-500 dollars. Just like a clear coat, the protective layer on the headlight wears off and a full restoration is needed followed by a plastic protection to correct the problem.
We offer 2 types of solution, the polishing or the full restoration involving wet-sanding. On softer plastic, sometimes polishing is enought to correct the problem but on harder plastic( i.e: pretty much all germans car) we highly recommend to go straight to the wet-sanding.
Exemple of a polishing done on a japanese car:
http://montrealracing.com/forums/sh...your-safety!&p=7539848&viewfull=1#post7539848
Exemple of a full restoration:
http://montrealracing.com/forums/sh...your-safety!&p=7710459&viewfull=1#post7710459
Bike lens: http://montrealracing.com/forums/sh...your-safety!&p=7720423&viewfull=1#post7720423
Why 2 differents type of decontamination ?
I saw so many detailers using acid fallout to decontaminate a paint, yes it's faster, yes it act a bit like a chemical decontamination but it can also permentaly stain your paint leaving drips of acid on your paint and you clearly do not want this on your expensive paint!
It's not a secret, we can't remove 100% of the contaminant during a regular wash.Is your paint not feeling as slick as it used to be? If so, it means you have contaminants stuck in your paint. In order to remove most of it we need to look at 2 methods, the first one and the most common in the past years is the clay bar. This is what I call a mechanical decontamination that can cause marring and scratch on the paint but it's still highly recommanded. You can read an article about it here:
http://montrealracing.com/forums/sh...rre-d-argile-c-est-quoi-Clay-bar-what-it-does
The second method is what I call a chemical decontamination, it remove oxydation and small rust spot in your paint. The product is costly and that's why much detailer skip this step but it's well worth it. The product is transparent when sprayed but after a hsort time it will turn purple on contact with iron particles. This will free the pore in the paint so the wax or sealant can last longer by going deeper in the paint.
Glaze:
This product is filled with oils. The oils will temporary fill the scratches giving you the impression it was well-polished but after a month or so, the oils will disappear leaving the true condition of the paint. Most shady shop will do a compound and hide the haze/compound trails with a glaze. This product is perfect for people who attend car show and want a wet-look or for people looking for a cheap but quick shine on your car in order to sell it for exemple. Or it's a great product for in between polish.
Paint cleanser:
The paint cleanse is very similar to a glaze but some of them contains micro-abrasive that can do small correction ( 5-10%), somes replace the oils by synthetic gloss enhancer meaning it will react better with sealant than wax. In general, paint cleanse is a better product overall than a glaze.
What is a Step? :
If you saw my other threads, you probably read the terms 2-step, 1-step etc. Well, some detailer likes to name as much step as possible because you know, more the better right? So they will include the washing process as step. Well, I don't. For me, a step is the action of polishing the car once with one type of pad and one type of polish. When I switch pad/polish, this is what I call a second step. I usually can go as much as 4-5 steps for a showroom finish.
Difference between abrasive cream?
If we take a look at Meguiars, they probably have about 20 differents creams and this is only one company. It would be way too complicated to go throu every single one but to make it more simple, I regrouped these polishes in 4 family; Compound, Intensive Polish, Final polish, jeweling. The first one beeing the most abrasive. As a rule of thumb, if you start with a compound, you will at least need 2 more step to complete your paint refinishing.
What is Aquapel ?
Aquapel is a product I highly rate and use on every single detail and I coat every windows with it. Most shop will only coat the windshield and/or front windows, well this is not the case with Waxxon, you are getting full coverage of the best rain repency product on the market.
You can read this article I wrote about Aquapel: http://montrealracing.com/forums/showthread.php?775362-Article-Info-sur-AQUAPEL&highlight=aquapel
How much times does your polishing takes?
I wrote an article about this just to say that the most important thing is not the time taken but the end result :
http://montrealracing.com/forums/sh...bien-de-temps-dure-un-traitement-esth%E9tique
What should I go for? a wax, sealant or a nano-coating?
At Waxxon, we prefer the concours show car look of a wax. We try to seek all over the globe to own the only finest wax on the market. I use the highly regarded Swissvax Crystal Rock ( made by the famous Paul Dalton). We also have in our collection the best Zymol wax ; Zymol Vintage and the 8500$ Zymol Royale. Waxxon is also one of the 5 owner in the world to own a very exclusive uprated version of Raceglaze Black Label Special Reserve. This is THE wax to get for a concours-look! We also started using Definitive Wax's product, including the exclusive Mystery 89 and Number One wax. A sealant will offer a more glassy look but will sometimes repels dirt more easily and offer a slicker finish (hence why it repels dirts more easily), we use sealant like Wolfgang deep gloss. As for nano-coating, this product is more suited for people who don't take care of their car regulary, it offer a very glassy look with little warm to the paint. It will make the flake of your paint pop. No matters which products you choose, you can be assured that we strike to find only the best products for your car, no matter what the cost of the product is
http://montrealracing.com/forums/sh...iff%E9rence-entre-une-carnauba-et-un-scellant
Why should I do a refresh or Winter protection ?
Unless, you already had your car protected by a nano-coating, you should consider a winter protection detail on your car if you plan on driving your car in the salt this winter because the wax used in the summer are more suited for look than ultimate durability. This doesn't means they won't protect but maybe not as good as a highly durable protection. How ofter do I heard '' what's the point of washing/protecting my car it will get dirty within 48 hours? ''. With that thinking, no athlete should take a shower because the next day they will do sweat again ? This doesn't make sens at all. A protection will help release debris without scrathing the paint it will also be slicker meaning less debris will stick to your paint meaning it will look less dirty than it used to be and by having less debris on your paint, you will also have less calcium on your maint meaning less chance of rusting.
Your price appears to be higher than X place, why?
First of all, most place only works from 8 to 17h, 5 days a week. I don't. I offer custom hours to suit your particular need. I detailed as late as 3h am. If you are tight on times, need your car done for a car show and will only get your car back from the garage friday at 17h. I can accomode your schedule so you can have your car ready in time for your event!
Second, we have to compare apples with apples. Remember what I said about the STEP needed for a detail ? If another person is offering you a 3-step for the same price as my 1-step he is probably cutting corner in the preparation work ( decontamination, paint thickness reading, cheap wax) or maybe he is including the glaze as a step and the layer of wax as a STEP but I don't. So please make sure both package will yeild the same result because I tried as much as possible to offer A LOT more for less than what the competition ask for.
Finally, you have to think about the product used. Like I said before, most people tend to cut corners and they usually cut it in the preparation step ( no foam gun, no brush cleaning, calipers/wheels not cleaned, no chemical decontamination, no clay bar), they will use acid fallout on delicate chrome wheels, they won't use the proper machine to achieve the expected result. Not everyone go throught the troubles of measuring the thickness of the paint on every panel in order to make sure no paint get burned, I offer a complete diagnostic of your paint after the work. Take a look at the finishing step, I use quality paint cleanse like Swissvax Cleaner Fluid or Raceglaze paint cleanse instead of using nothing or a IPA solution. When it comes to the wax, I have many experience of detailer using spray wax or cheap off-the-counter cleaner wax as a finishing wax. These products have nothing in common with the Swissvax, Definitive wax, Raceglaze,Zymol etc. wax I use.
I'm winter-storing my car, it's useless to have my car detailed!
Unless your storing your car outside without a car cover, why would your car get damaged/deteriorated during winter under a nice car cover heated at 15 celcius left untouched? There's no reason for the paint to be damaged and the wax won't evaporate during the winter. If you have a proper garage, you will enjoy having your car detailed during winter so you will beat the spring rush and as soon as you put back th eplate on the car, you will enjoy a shiny ride!
By the way, just for the laught, these 2 cars are stored, for the past 2 years, outside, in the cold but with a car cover, see by yourself if these car look horribles ! http://montrealracing.com/forums/sh...kyline-GTR-condition-showroom-!-99-correction and http://montrealracing.com/forums/sh...racked-Skyline-GTR-3-step-Waxxon-wax-Detailed
I have a track car, why Should I have my car detailed? It's not worth it..
To be honest, if this car is a drift car, get smashed from time to time, interior has been stripped, I do admit your car car might not be worth detailed. However, if you own a car that you show-off at event, drive it in the street, please be aware that sometimes, if the stains is fresh it's a lot easier to clean/remove than a stains that ha sbeen left and cooked at the big sun for a full month or so! By stain, I mean the usual rubber gum track car get from tires or brake dust on fender and wheels, for exemple. What I suggest is a good polish and a nano-protection. After this, we can look at a visit every now and then after a track event ( if you can't remove it by yourself). These nano-coating will witstand higher temperature so they are the wiser protection to apply both on the paint but also on the wheels for easier cleaning.
How can I trust you?
By looking at my latest realisation, you will find out that a couple cars have already passed by. I'm working out to have a great reputation and I strike for it as I do it for the passion or what we call '' the love of the game''. I also worked for the last 3 years at the Montreal Autoshow driving and working on brand new car where no errors is tolerated ( how would they replace the car if it happens?). I also worked at car rental so I'm used to move car around. Finally, I know how it is, you have a tuned car with a triple plate clutch, a 700whp car? Don't worry, I drove triple plate clutch before. For me, it's a honor to polish a car, I have no other intention, beside the detailing, with your car.
Do you test the product you use?
This one of most enjoyable things about detailing ; testing new products. I'm member on detailing around the world in the research of the latest products that would yield me a better result. I mostly use my car and family's car to do my own test before using the product on your car making sure the claim made by the manufacturer is true.
Waxxon is also very close with other well-known detailer and company and test beta products for them giving them feedback to come out with a good products. I won't disclose these companies but we are very proud and happy to do so.
Have a read at this thread, it's actually my personal car: http://montrealracing.com/forums/sh...Wolfgang-Fuzion-wax-aquapel-Interior-clean-up
Do you offer mobile , in-house detailing ?
I do, but let just say that I rather work in my own environement as I have everything close ot me and feel more relaxed. At the moment, I'm located in Montreal. However, if, for whatever reason, you would prefer to have your car detailed at your place, please make sure there's proper lighting, wide space ( ideally, it would be possible to open both doors without rubbing the doors), have access to electric wall plug and water hose.
The distance is also not a problem, we went as far as driving a good 1000 kms to detail cars.
By polishing, we actually remove some paint, how long can I do it before the coat goes too thin ?
It will vary from paint to paint as every manufacture use a differents process/quality of paint for their various cars and thickness can have great variation between panel but as a rule of thumb, I would say you can have your car polished 10 times ( 2-step polish) before it get risky.
Why shouldn't I use product silicone-based, like Armor-All for exemple ?
Most silicone-based product are very greasy leaving a nasty finish on your tires or interior. It act like a glue meaning it will look shiny the first day but then after it will attract all the dirts making your coated surface dirtier than it should. It will also create a not-so-good reaction with the UV rays ; interior products will crack sooner, tires will turn brownish quickly.
My leather is cracked, what can I do ?
Unfortunately, nothing can be done. We can prevent the crack to go any further but a leather conditionner won't resolve this problem. I recommend you ask your local upholstery shop or ask me as I know one. We also have to be cautious with leather products as some will dehydrate even more your leather. Ideally, a leather should be cleaned, at least, every 6-12 months followed by a good leather conditionner treatment.
My paint is changing color, red turns pink, white get cream white, black miss depth, why?
This is a result of the damage of the UV rays attacking your clear coat. The clear coat is oxyded. Most of the time, only a polishing will remove this oxydation but some times we need to go deeper and wet-sand the affected area ( but then, we have to make sure there's enought paint to do it) in order to complete remove this layer of oxydation. This is why it's important to apply a layer of protection every now in then so that instead of attacking your clear coat, the UV will attack your wax or sealant.
How many times should I do a detailing ?
The honest answer is when you feel your car is missing that detailed touch or that shiny look! As simple. Usually, one polish a year is sufficent to keep the car in very good condition and have your car waxed 3 times a year. If you like that just-waxed-look, we could meet every month for a coat of wax! Everything is possible, you are the boss.
Where can I buy these high-quality products?
I'm offering detailing class if you would like to have a class tailored to your need where we try differents products in my arsenal to find the one you prefer and then I will show you how to use them and where to buy it or I could order them also.
Why should I have my brand new car detailed? It's perfect, isn't it?
Simple answer; to start off on a good base, understand the proper need for a well-maintened car and I saw brand new car worth more than 100 000$ in such a lame condition, I feel bad every time I see it; It's not because it's brand new that it's in perfect condition. For a long answer, pelase click the thread below.
http://montrealracing.com/forums/sh...eccesary!-Nettoyer-une-nouvelle-auto-vraiment
première expérience chez Waxxon spa automobile.
pour ma part j'ai été très content du résultats pour un step-1 le résultats a été très facile a voir beaucoup de gens mon demander si j'avais faite une cire a mon véhicule et par qui. je les est référer a waxxon sans faute, mais bien sure la plus part des gens ce dise ouff c'est chère comme prix mais bon personne a le même budget.
petite choses que j'ai moin aimer....
-j'ai remarquer un économie sur les produits ont dirais que l'ont en applique le moin possible pour faire plus de véhicule au bout du compte.
-aquapel de qualité très ordinaire de plus que ma vitre a des genre de marque l'orsque qu'il mouille ,car ont dirait que le produit a pas été appliquer de manière égal partout.
-lavage des mag très rapide.
-mes side skirts ont été fait a 90% petite oublie des endroit que l'ont vois un peu moin , mais quand même très visible vue du coté du véhicule.
pour ma part j'ai été très content du résultats pour un step-1 le résultats a été très facile a voir beaucoup de gens mon demander si j'avais faite une cire a mon véhicule et par qui. je les est référer a waxxon sans faute, mais bien sure la plus part des gens ce dise ouff c'est chère comme prix mais bon personne a le même budget.
petite choses que j'ai moin aimer....
-j'ai remarquer un économie sur les produits ont dirais que l'ont en applique le moin possible pour faire plus de véhicule au bout du compte.
-aquapel de qualité très ordinaire de plus que ma vitre a des genre de marque l'orsque qu'il mouille ,car ont dirait que le produit a pas été appliquer de manière égal partout.
-lavage des mag très rapide.
-mes side skirts ont été fait a 90% petite oublie des endroit que l'ont vois un peu moin , mais quand même très visible vue du coté du véhicule.
première expérience chez Waxxon spa automobile.
pour ma part j'ai été très content du résultats pour un step-1 le résultats a été très facile a voir beaucoup de gens mon demander si j'avais faite une cire a mon véhicule et par qui. je les est référer a waxxon sans faute, mais bien sure la plus part des gens ce dise ouff c'est chère comme prix mais bon personne a le même budget.
petite choses que j'ai moin aimer....
-j'ai remarquer un économie sur les produits ont dirais que l'ont en applique le moin possible pour faire plus de véhicule au bout du compte.
-aquapel de qualité très ordinaire de plus que ma vitre a des genre de marque l'orsque qu'il mouille ,car ont dirait que le produit a pas été appliquer de manière égal partout.
-lavage des mag très rapide.
-mes side skirts ont été fait a 90% petite oublie des endroit que l'ont vois un peu moin , mais quand même très visible vue du coté du véhicule.
T'as des pics de ce que tu affirmes ? Ça m'intrigue...
WaGoNowner
New member
C'est dommage mais plus sa va, moins la job est de qualitée.
Et je parle ici par experience, j'ai fait faire 5 vehicules differents pour un total de 7 job et je n'ai pu que remarquer la qualitée qui diminue avec le temps.
Je ne dis pas ici que la job n'est pas bonne, mais la clientèle s'élargie et sa se reflète sur les jobs.
Et je parle ici par experience, j'ai fait faire 5 vehicules differents pour un total de 7 job et je n'ai pu que remarquer la qualitée qui diminue avec le temps.
Je ne dis pas ici que la job n'est pas bonne, mais la clientèle s'élargie et sa se reflète sur les jobs.
(subadict) je ne croit pas que je suis rendu au point de prendre des photo de la saleté restante ou bien encore des endroits un peu laisser a désirer et pour l'Aquapel tu éssailleras de prendre sa en photo ce n'est pas mon bût. J'ai fait ce petit status tout simplement pour dire ce que je pensait du travaille que j'ai reçu et je ne pence pas que je suis le seule a avoir remarquer des choses. ce n'est pas pour rabaiser waxxon que l'ont dit sa ses tout simplement que je pence que ses très bon pour lui de le s'avoir après tout c'est nous les clients et si ont est satisfait du travail ont va y retourner si non bien ont va aller voir ailleurs tous simplement.merci!
ce n'est pas mon bût. J'ai fait ce petit status tout simplement pour dire ce que je pensait du travaille que j'ai reçu et je ne pence pas que je suis le seule a avoir remarquer des choses. ce n'est pas pour rabaiser waxxon que l'ont dit sa ses tout simplement que je pence que ses très bon pour lui de le s'avoir après tout c'est nous les clients et si ont est satisfait du travail ont va y retourner si non bien ont va aller voir ailleurs tous simplement.merci!
Last edited:
première expérience chez Waxxon spa automobile.
pour ma part j'ai été très content du résultats pour un step-1 le résultats a été très facile a voir beaucoup de gens mon demander si j'avais faite une cire a mon véhicule et par qui. je les est référer a waxxon sans faute, mais bien sure la plus part des gens ce dise ouff c'est chère comme prix mais bon personne a le même budget.
petite choses que j'ai moin aimer....
-j'ai remarquer un économie sur les produits ont dirais que l'ont en applique le moin possible pour faire plus de véhicule au bout du compte.
-aquapel de qualité très ordinaire de plus que ma vitre a des genre de marque l'orsque qu'il mouille ,car ont dirait que le produit a pas été appliquer de manière égal partout.
-lavage des mag très rapide.
-mes side skirts ont été fait a 90% petite oublie des endroit que l'ont vois un peu moin , mais quand même très visible vue du coté du véhicule.
C'est difficile de t'aider quand je sais pas qui est la personne derière ce username, la date et la voiture. De deux, j'essaie toujours de régler un problème ou de chercher des explications ( d'autant plus que si je comprend bien, tu es resté à coté de moi tous le long de la job, ce qui aurait été facile à demandé ou me mentionner que je rectifie la situation) en privé avant de l'étaler de façon publique.