big turbo AWP 1.8T liste d epicerie

KRAZY-SAMSUNG

KRAZY-SAMSUNG

New member
j ai essayé dans search et vite de meme j ai pas trouvé grand chose


apres reflexion je compte garder ma jetta ;)

quelqu un serait il assez gentil de me faire une liste de ce que j ai besoin pour monter a 300-350 hp ?

je compte faire ca d ici l été et je commence a magasiner mais je veux pas acheter des trucs pour rien


merci beaucoup

si ca a été dejas discuter juste a me donner le lien et j efface mon thread
 
tt225 maf
injecteurs Siemens 630cc
high flow cat (Opt)
gt2871rs
inlet pipe
Intake
ligne d'exaust
FMIC

supposé donné 300 aux roues avec un Stg III Unitonic


Le mien est en train de ce faire posé en ce moment.

Je suis sur qu'il y à d'autre option, je m'y connais peu en Euro la dernière que j'ai eu avant la A4 remonte à 1996.
 
Axis said:
tt225 maf
injecteurs Siemens 630cc
high flow cat (Opt)
gt2871rs
inlet pipe
Intake
ligne d'exaust
FMIC

supposé donné 300 aux roues avec un Stg III Unitonic


Le mien est en train de ce faire posé en ce moment.

Je suis sur qu'il y à d'autre option, je m'y connais peu en Euro la dernière que j'ai eu avant la A4 remonte à 1996.
Click to expand...

jte donne un ete et tu saute le moteur.. sans metre des conecting rod c une bomb qui attend just dexploser
 
danther said:
Pas besoin de rod... Stop posting because you have no idea what you are talking about!
Click to expand...

J'ai jamais eu besoin de rod non plus, kit Kinetic t3/t4 20-22 psi daily drive !

http://www.kineticmotorsport.com/products/KINETIC_MOTORSPORT_MKIV_1_8T_TURBO_HARDWARE_KIT-927-258.html

C'est ce que j'avais. Rajoute a sa des injecteurs 630cc, Unitronic BT file, maf housing 3'', kit de fmic (le kit kinetic est excellent aussi), exhaust 3'' catless et une bonne clutch (clutchmaster fx400 dans mon cas) et t'est en business ! J'etais dans le coin des 350hp avec sa.
 
alexTjoe said:
jte donne un ete et tu saute le moteur.. sans metre des conecting rod c une bomb qui attend just dexploser
Click to expand...

@20 psi je crois pas j'ai un ami qui est rendu à 240000km sur ce setup. J'ai acheté le turbo d'un gars qui a passé une rod à travers le block. Lui il poussait 26-28 lbs...

Selon les test d'Unitronic tu peux aller jusqu'a 340 whp sur les rods stock, c'est pour ça qu'ils disent que c'est plus "safe" de rouler max 300.

Ronin said:
Tu vas aussi trouver le temps long sans LSD et nouvelle clutch
Click to expand...

Faisais tu référence à l'OP?

Dans mon cas : Clutch de Rs4 et flywheel allégée singlemass.

ProjectVW said:
J'ai jamais eu besoin de rod non plus, kit Kinetic t3/t4 20-22 psi daily drive !

http://www.kineticmotorsport.com/products/KINETIC_MOTORSPORT_MKIV_1_8T_TURBO_HARDWARE_KIT-927-258.html

C'est ce que j'avais. Rajoute a sa des injecteurs 630cc, Unitronic BT file, maf housing 3'', kit de fmic (le kit kinetic est excellent aussi), exhaust 3'' catless et une bonne clutch (clutchmaster fx400 dans mon cas) et t'est en business ! J'etais dans le coin des 350hp avec sa.
Click to expand...

Ça a l'air assez nice et assez agressif comme kit lol
 
danther said:
Pas besoin de rod... Stop posting because you have no idea what you are talking about!
Click to expand...

i know just exactly what im talking about..thank you.. i am simply advising some one of a know problem with these motors and that is of the weak conecting rods with the engines using 19mm rist pins.. ive done more then enough research of BT kits as i was going to build my own.. i have coutless hours of reading up build threads on vortex and plenty of research on rod failure on motors running around that power...

SURE YOU CAN GET AWAY WITH IT and drive the car with out ever having an issue...BUT...it cant happen at anymoment when you push the stock internals to there limit...

reason why i like most would rather be safe then sorry..if your going to build it build it right the first time dont be a cheap ass..kuz in the long run if you want to keep a car..simply droping in some IE rods with new bearing and a fresh set of oem piston rings is alot cheaper then a complete new motor because you put a rod through the side of your block.

so how about you stfu since you obviosuly dont have anything better to say and are completly no help to the OP

:thefinger
 
and btw here is my shoping list i came up with when i talk to arnold from pag part..which btw is great and answerd all my questions... the reason why i didnt go throught with the BT build is because i had to buy another mk2 and that killed my budget..

so this list here is pretty much what you would need - a couple things to make it fit in a mk2

this will be good for 350whp to about 550whp (going to need more engine work to sustain this hp) with all other goodies and a great tune

Hey man. Well, there are choices I can give you to minimize some of this. Here is a list of engine upgrade components that will hold the power you are looking for and then some:

Brute Drilled 19mm Drop in Rod set
ACL Rod bearing set
Headgasket Kit
Oil pan sealer
ARP Headstud Kit

795 for the above. If you need piston ring set (OEM) add 110. This is all you really need to do to hold the power you are looking for. Even up to 450whp.

As for the turbo kit. On a MK2, it would have to be somewhat custom. I can set you up w/ a modified engine mount bracket in the back and my bottom mounted kits or a totally custom top mount kit. My bottom mount kits are very budget oriented:

GT3071R Bottom mounted kit:

Manifold
GT3071R .63ar
oil feed line kit
oil return line kit
GT restrictor
coolant line kit
oil pan adapter kit
oil return flange kit
3" SS DP custom for MK2
3" inlet piping set
mounting stud kit
630cc injector set
inline fuel pump set
Eurodyne Maestro
Custom Motor Mount

4500 for the above. Not entirely sure if the above will work, but I can try (never tried fitting on MK2, but i'm 75% sure it can/will work)

Arnold
 
Because you have read it on the net biggest source of misinformation ) you know what you are talking about ???!!!! Please stop talking right now. I have done and seen with my own eyes, I have also forgoten more than you know kid! Do you even know why stock rods ( which are forged by the way ) break? Its not because of power, its because after time and many high revs 6700+ rpm they stretch snd what happens to metal when you strtch it over and over? It becomes weak and breaks when you apply force to it and thats why the rods tend to break at lower rpm, where the torque is high.
After market rods will do the same thing after time ( it will just take more time since alot more goes into making them ).
 
danther said:
Because you have read it on the net biggest source of misinformation ) you know what you are talking about ???!!!! Please stop talking right now. I have done and seen with my own eyes, I have also forgoten more than you know kid! Do you even know why stock rods ( which are forged by the way ) break? Its not because of power, its because after time and many high revs 6700+ rpm they stretch snd what happens to metal when you strtch it over and over? It becomes weak and breaks when you apply force to it and thats why the rods tend to break at lower rpm, where the torque is high.
After market rods will do the same thing after time ( it will just take more time since alot more goes into making them ).
Click to expand...

im trying not to laugh..do like you always do when you talk shit and thats disappear.

and thanks for confirming just like i said..stock rods break because they get brittle over time and number one cause of then breaking is due to low end torque spikes often caused by ko4 swaps due to the "insta spool" factor...yes running a gt28 is actually safer then running a ko4 due to a slower and more gradual spool but JUST LIKE YOU SAID rods with mileage on them tend to break once power is put to them.. which is what the OP wants..its to put down power.. and unless you like to hold your breath when you slam on the throttle hoping shit holds together..you fuking build it right..

i simply have an opinion just as you have your own..dont like some ones opinion good for fuking you.. but im trying to help the OP unlike yourself right now.

AND OMG YES I did some researching on the net to know what other have done and the mistakes others have made...and guess what 75% of those motor who failed where due to stock rods letting go...

so unless the OP doesnt want to hear this info...then dont tell me to stop posting..

you are useless to this thread so if anyone should stop its you as all you do is pollute
 
danther said:
Because you have read it on the net biggest source of misinformation ) you know what you are talking about ???!!!! Please stop talking right now. I have done and seen with my own eyes, I have also forgoten more than you know kid! Do you even know why stock rods ( which are forged by the way ) break? Its not because of power, its because after time and many high revs 6700+ rpm they stretch snd what happens to metal when you strtch it over and over? It becomes weak and breaks when you apply force to it and thats why the rods tend to break at lower rpm, where the torque is high.
After market rods will do the same thing after time ( it will just take more time since alot more goes into making them ).
Click to expand...


:scratch::scratch:

so let me get this straight rods dont break because of power...but because they get weak and when you apply "force" AKA power they break....

ok there buddy
 
Hp is not what causes rods to break, its torque( does not have to be alot either ). Any rod will be weakened by high revs ( after market ones will just take longer ).
 
alexTjoe said:
:scratch::scratch:

so let me get this straight rods dont break because of power...but because they get weak and when you apply "force" AKA power they break....

ok there buddy
Click to expand...
Just for you
In physics, a force is any influence that causes an object to undergo a change in speed, a change in direction, or a change in shape. In other words, a force is that which can cause an object with mass to change its velocity (which includes to begin moving from a state of rest), i.e., to accelerate, or which can cause a flexible object to deform. Force can also be described by intuitive concepts such as a push or pull. A force has both magnitude and direction, making it a vector quantity. Newton's second law, F = ma, was originally formulated in slightly different, but equivalent terms: the original version states that the net force acting upon an object is equal to the rate at which its momentum changes.[1]

Related concepts to force include: thrust, which increases the velocity of an object; drag, which decreases the velocity of an object; and torque which produces changes in rotational speed of an object. Forces which do not act uniformly on all parts of a body will also cause mechanical stresses,[2] a technical term for influences which cause deformation of matter. While mechanical stress can remain embedded in a solid object, gradually deforming it, mechanical stress in a fluid determines changes in its pressure and volume.[3][4]
In physics, power is the rate at which energy is transferred, used, or transformed. For example, the rate at which a light bulb transforms electrical energy into heat and light is measured in watts—the more wattage, the more power, or equivalently the more electrical energy is used per unit time.[1][2]

Energy transfer can be used to do work, so power is also the rate at which this work is performed. The output power of an electric motor is the product of the torque the motor generates and the angular velocity of its output shaft. The power expended to move a vehicle is the product of the traction force of the wheels and the velocity of the vehicle.

The integral of power over time defines the work done. Because this integral depends on the trajectory of the point of application of the force and torque, this calculation of work is said to be "path dependent."
 
Si c'est un awp achete des rods. C'est pas compliquer investir un peu plus pour avoir un setup fiable au lieu de tourner les coins rond.. En plus c'est connu dans les awp que les rods sont faible over 300 wtq.
 
Les rods stock sont bonnes pour 300 whp en masse même un petit peu plus .. Si tu veux une job top notch appele Benoit chez BCF je me suis fais monter un setup par lui et je suis 100% satisfait !!
 
danther said:
Just for you
In physics, a force is any influence that causes an object to undergo a change in speed, a change in direction, or a change in shape. In other words, a force is that which can cause an object with mass to change its velocity (which includes to begin moving from a state of rest), i.e., to accelerate, or which can cause a flexible object to deform. Force can also be described by intuitive concepts such as a push or pull. A force has both magnitude and direction, making it a vector quantity. Newton's second law, F = ma, was originally formulated in slightly different, but equivalent terms: the original version states that the net force acting upon an object is equal to the rate at which its momentum changes.[1]

Related concepts to force include: thrust, which increases the velocity of an object; drag, which decreases the velocity of an object; and torque which produces changes in rotational speed of an object. Forces which do not act uniformly on all parts of a body will also cause mechanical stresses,[2] a technical term for influences which cause deformation of matter. While mechanical stress can remain embedded in a solid object, gradually deforming it, mechanical stress in a fluid determines changes in its pressure and volume.[3][4]
In physics, power is the rate at which energy is transferred, used, or transformed. For example, the rate at which a light bulb transforms electrical energy into heat and light is measured in watts—the more wattage, the more power, or equivalently the more electrical energy is used per unit time.[1][2]

Energy transfer can be used to do work, so power is also the rate at which this work is performed. The output power of an electric motor is the product of the torque the motor generates and the angular velocity of its output shaft. The power expended to move a vehicle is the product of the traction force of the wheels and the velocity of the vehicle.

The integral of power over time defines the work done. Because this integral depends on the trajectory of the point of application of the force and torque, this calculation of work is said to be "path dependent."
Click to expand...

im so proud that you know how to use google and know how to use the copy paste function of your computer. if i wanted the scientific definition i would of searched it myself

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Force

but this isnt science class..which might be something you needed more of as well as the rest of the education that went with it.

im done here..you have been as useful to the OP as a paper weight so no need to keep this going and have you pollute his thread more.

TO THE OP...rods are a good idea to look into.. yes might run you 1000$ more for the labour and parts..but they will allow you to push your car with out fear..and if ever you want to go bigger a 19mm rist pin 1.8t with only rods/bearings/oem rings/ and some ARP hardware can handle 500hp..

its simple.. and i always go by this as most that care about there cars...DO IT ONCE DO IT RIGHT
 
You might have wanted to stay in school a little longer ( i do have a science education ) that way you would understand how things work! You might also want to build some big turbo 1.8Ts before you tell others what to do. There are a couple people who have posted here that have and they have said rods are not needed, only the forum readers have said rods are needed.
 
En resume
Guys who have never built BT 1.8t but have read about it = need rods
Guys who have built BT 1.8t = no need for rods in a street car ie 20-22 psi
 
Tropikal said:
Les rods stock sont bonnes pour 300 whp en masse même un petit peu plus .. Si tu veux une job top notch appele Benoit chez BCF je me suis fais monter un setup par lui et je suis 100% satisfait !!
Click to expand...

peux tu me donner des details de ton setup et le prix si possible? par pm si tu veux
 
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