Engine Braking

Broody said:
When engine braking, you are using no fuel at all, so depending of the conditions, it may be more fuel efficient to engine brake, or to coast in neutral...
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... i'm not a ricer. my usual downshift ends up being under 2000rpm anyways. the way i see there's no point starting to decelerate 20 feet from a stop sign. ya, i'm that guy braking/slowing down from far away. i want my clutch/gas/brakes/everything else to last as long as possible
 
HeadBanger said:
... i'm not a ricer. my usual downshift ends up being under 2000rpm anyways. the way i see there's no point starting to decelerate 20 feet from a stop sign. ya, i'm that guy braking/slowing down from far away. i want my clutch/gas/brakes/everything else to last as long as possible
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In town it's not always that easy to always brake 1 mile in advance, so your better to stay in gear around 2000rpm, so you burn no gas.
 
Broody said:
In town it's not always that easy to always brake 1 mile in advance, so your better to stay in gear around 2000rpm, so you burn no gas.
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interesting. i do it all the time in Ottawa and Montreal. if i'm turning onto the road i'm not going to race to the next red light
 
Revmatch = no wear on the cluch (if you can do it properly that is)

Stay in gear till you get to engine idle speed = 1 use of clutch pedal less = less wear on the release bearing

Saves gas

Saves brakes without damaging the engine.

My car has 250 000km of that kind of driving, no issues with the clutch, the engine mounts or the engine itself.
 
yup... there's a fuel cut on deceleration while in gear. Motor spins on on compression only from the cars momentum.

I'll typically only downshift to 3rd. At 11:1 second gear decelerates too fast, at that point i just brake.
 
ya rien de plus stupide que compressé pour ralentir a un arret brake+neutral ftw ,aucune stress sur le motopropulseur. yen a qui on l'air de pensé qu'ils conduisent un 10 roues lol
 
mrspider said:
ya rien de plus stupide que compressé pour ralentir a un arret brake+neutral ftw ,aucune stress sur le motopropulseur. yen a qui on l'air de pensé qu'ils conduisent un 10 roues lol
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Mon char a 245,000kms pis le groupe motopropulseur roule comme un charme et je decompresse a CHAQUE stop.
 
android25ua said:
Revmatch = no wear on the cluch (if you can do it properly that is)

Stay in gear till you get to engine idle speed = 1 use of clutch pedal less = less wear on the release bearing

Saves gas

Saves brakes without damaging the engine.

My car has 250 000km of that kind of driving, no issues with the clutch, the engine mounts or the engine itself.
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ya my car is an 03, has 348xxxkm now and it's all original as far as drivetrain goes.
 
Same here almost 100k without any problems and I revmatch downshift most of the time, Im still on original brake pads and disc too lol it`s impressive how they tough ! I only do 5,4,3 tho rarely in second gear cause obviously it`s too much stress for nothing on the car but it is so fun to revmatch + the awesome sound when the engine decelerates *tu*
 
revmatching from fekkin far away, driving like Im 78 yrs old. Brakes arent used much...always cold... When I see a red light I just decelerate and try not to touch the brake. People for some reason never try to pass me..
 
logik23 said:
Mon char a 245,000kms pis le groupe motopropulseur roule comme un charme et je decompresse a CHAQUE stop.
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je te crois mais ça reste totalement inutile de conduire comme ça, le temp que tu prend a descendre tes vitesse moi je suis deja repartis de l'arret :)
 
So does anyone here have a good answer if its good or bad on an engine to compress? I'm not talking about rev-matching, wear on the clutch ect...
 
newschooler said:
So does anyone here have a good answer if its good or bad on an engine to compress? I'm not talking about rev-matching, wear on the clutch ect...
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ç'est mauvais c'est sur mais ça ne va pas détruire ton auto c'est juste un stess inutile surtout sur un moteur faible des bolt de connecting rod ensuite le gars se demande pkoi le piston est sortie du block , depend toujours a quelle rpm tu fait monté ton moteur en compresssion
 
brakes are easier and cheaper to change than engine components.
that said, i always downshift because i like the feel and the sound...
 
mrspider said:
ç'est mauvais c'est sur mais ça ne va pas détruire ton auto c'est juste un stess inutile surtout sur un moteur faible des bolt de connecting rod ensuite le gars se demande pkoi le piston est sortie du block , depend toujours a quelle rpm tu fait monté ton moteur en compresssion
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OMG LOL....

source?
 
D-2-1 pi ça downshift tu seul.

Avec mon Jeep Cherokee '89 je downshift toujours avant de braké (mettons que les brake sont pas fort fort). Pi le 4.0l a un beau son en haut de 2500rpm. :D

J'aime ça avoir l'impression de chauffer un 10roue. J'aime ça chauffer un 10roue. J'AI TU LE DROIT D'AIMER ÇA CHAUFFER UN 10ROUE ??? :D
 
jpf412 said:
D-2-1 pi ça downshift tu seul.

Avec mon Jeep Cherokee '89 je downshift toujours avant de braké (mettons que les brake sont pas fort fort). Pi le 4.0l a un beau son en haut de 2500rpm. :D

J'aime ça avoir l'impression de chauffer un 10roue. J'aime ça chauffer un 10roue. J'AI TU LE DROIT D'AIMER ÇA CHAUFFER UN 10ROUE ??? :D
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Jeep for sale!
4.0L (auto)
Body immaculate
Transmission A1 !!!!!!
 
Pourquoi ça serait mauvais faire compresser le moteur?

Le moteur tourne en max vacuum sans le stress d'une explosion a tous les 4 révolutions, tu peux pas avoir plus facile pour un moteur!
Et comme ça été dit plusieurs fois, en décélération l'ECU tombe en DFCO (Deceleration Fuel Cut Off). Ceux qui ont un WB peuvent vous le confirmer, l'AFR peg très lean en décélération et c'est normal, y'a rien a bruler! :)
 
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