Mon projet Miata turbo.

CANADAM said:
Burnt valve or bad coil.
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I tried changing the coils for my spare one and it fires with the spark plugs removed from the engine. Changed the main relay, still cranking strong but as soon as it seems to pick up, it dies... Will check the fuel pump wiring, I dont hear the pump priming when turning the key. Or the burnt valves like you mention... Is a compression test will lead me on finding out the burnt valves problem??? Never happened to me before, those kind of problem...im almost clueless...
 
Ya, a compression test will tell you if you’re low in a cylinder.
You could also go for a drive and do a clean acceleration run, and then kill the engine. Pull off the road and check your plugs. See if the colors are light brown and consistent.
 
the car doesn't even start up now, cranks solid but dont seems to come alive and stay running, it just dies like as if I remove the key... the plugs were blackened out on the surround but whitened on the center when I pulled them out. They are almost new...
 
Ouvre aem tuner, va dans l'onglet troubleshooting.

Regarde si tu vois bougé Start SYNCH quand tu crank l'auto. Vérifier ta lecture du wideband si elle concorde bien dans AEM tuner et sur ton gauge.

Teste de compression, vérifie pression d'essence, et s'il y a du feu, si tu as tout ca mais que ca start pas, Essaie d'uploadé ta vieille map de base, (garde une copie de ta map tuner quand meme.)
 
pork-n-beanz said:
vq how was the tuning with pat how does the car run
Click to expand...

Dude, he even wrote in english so you'd understand

VQ'ed said:
the car doesn't even start up now, cranks solid but dont seems to come alive and stay running, it just dies like as if I remove the key... the plugs were blackened out on the surround but whitened on the center when I pulled them out. They are almost new...
Click to expand...
 
He had problems with the MAF and narrowband oxygen sensor. I suggested him to clamp the two but he seems that he has done his own way... Personally, the car runs like crap. Not to say its Pat's fault but for 800$, im not satisfied with the way the car runs. The AF ratio hunts up and down while cruising. From loosing the ratio to 20:1+ on the gauge while cruising then, 15 seconds with the throttle at the same place, his tune takes over the OEM ECU and it goes up to 13:1, the tune gets a bump in gas, it surges forward by itself...As I put my foot down, it goes to 10:1 and stays there...All that between 4000 and 5000rpm... It needs fine tuning but I suppose he tuned the car only on one throttle position (100% opened)...I need to go back and see him, taking him for a ride for him to see where he need to work on the tune. For the moment, I need to do a compression test to see what had gone wrong with the car...Men, I regret so much gone turbo... I might part out the whole engine for what is still good on it and put back a stocker engine and concentrating on driving the damn thing. I fucking need to find what has gone wrong.

Long story short:
-It runs 10:0 on the gauge while being foot to the floor. from 5500 to 7200...
-The two ECUs fight each other while cruising on the highway at 110kmh
and if you keep your foot at the same position for 15 seconds exactly, it goes on Pat's tune.
-the fuel pump is not doing any priming sound and he buzzing sound is not audible while I try to start the car. Something is wrong with the wires underneat the steering wheel, I suppose...

To answer quickly, I liked the way Pat works, he's layed back and confidence inspiring. I just want him to sort out my tune to get a reliable car.
 
Tes encore avec un piggyback? J'pensais t'avais installé un stand alone.


?!!!!!!!!!!!!!!?
 
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ure fuelpump is suposed to be a walbro, but we never heard it, compared to all the walbro's i ran.
nothing to do with the wires under the steering wheel, the pump is plugged on the oem relays using ome wires , cant be a problem there.UNLESS you/someone did a super hack-n-slash job somewhere.if not, ure pump is ok(are you SURE it's a walbro?)

if your setup is tuned only a wot,your setup is tps based, not rpm related, so it shouldn't affect your daily driving.
 
VQ'ed said:
He had problems with the MAF and narrowband oxygen sensor. I suggested him to clamp the two but he seems that he has done his own way... Personally, the car runs like crap. Not to say its Pat's fault but for 800$, im not satisfied with the way the car runs. The AF ratio hunts up and down while cruising. From loosing the ratio to 20:1+ on the gauge while cruising then, 15 seconds with the throttle at the same place, his tune takes over the OEM ECU and it goes up to 13:1, the tune gets a bump in gas, it surges forward by itself...As I put my foot down, it goes to 10:1 and stays there...All that between 4000 and 5000rpm... It needs fine tuning but I suppose he tuned the car only on one throttle position (100% opened)...I need to go back and see him, taking him for a ride for him to see where he need to work on the tune. For the moment, I need to do a compression test to see what had gone wrong with the car...Men, I regret so much gone turbo... I might part out the whole engine for what is still good on it and put back a stocker engine and concentrating on driving the damn thing. I fucking need to find what has gone wrong.

Long story short:
-It runs 10:0 on the gauge while being foot to the floor. from 5500 to 7200...
-The two ECUs fight each other while cruising on the highway at 110kmh
and if you keep your foot at the same position for 15 seconds exactly, it goes on Pat's tune.
-the fuel pump is not doing any priming sound and he buzzing sound is not audible while I try to start the car. Something is wrong with the wires underneat the steering wheel, I suppose...

To answer quickly, I liked the way Pat works, he's layed back and confidence inspiring. I just want him to sort out my tune to get a reliable car.
Click to expand...
cest sure que de faire tuner un char avec des boyau de piscine cest vraiment une bonne solution pour ne pas sattire de probleme.


si ma memoire est bonne ta appeler pat ( jetait a shop) pis il ta dit darrenger tes petit bobos pis de lappeler quand tout serais top coche ... ta payer 800$ je pense que aussi ta eu des probleme avec ton auto ... pat aurais pu te dire de prendre tes affaire pis pas taider .... il ta aussi dit de revenir parce que ton piping cest suicide ... alors pk a place de dire que te pas satisfait a la terre entiere tu ne lappel pas pour t'expliquer avec lui ..??


cest rien contre toi ou ton setup mais je pense que discute avec la personne en question ca serais une bonne premiere solution ...
 
Manu...Es-tu au courant de ce que j'ai comme entente avec Pat???..NON. Il est au courant de TOUT. Je l'ai appelé hier soir!!!
Je savais que mon piping était pas la meilleure idée du monde mais fallait commencer par partir la voiture pour commencer a quelque part, le base tune de mes 440...Je ne défait pas DU TOUT ce que Pat a fait pour moi. Au contraire, c'était la premiere étape...et j'en suis conscient. Faut pas commencer a dire ce que j'ai pas dis...ok??

Regarde, je vais faire ce que j'ai a faire avec ma voiture. Faut que je retourne le voir pour aller avec lui sur la route pour qu'il voit comment la voiture roule... Pour l'instant, l'auto roule pas et je ne suis pas satisfait de comment ELLE EST MAINTENANT.. Ca veut pas dire qu'il a tuné ma voiture tout croche....Il a travaillé avec ce qu'il avait...je comprend et c'est normal.

Quote from above: To answer quickly, I liked the way Pat works, he's layed back and confidence inspiring. I just want him to sort out my tune to get a reliable car. Do I need to say more??
 
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J'ai pas réussi a trouver de EMS série 1. J'ai meme appelé AEM en Californie pour leur demander ou ils avaient fait leurs dernieres factures sur le 30-1710 et le dernier s'est vendu a San antonio. J'ai appelé a la shop et il était parti... Sur ebay, ya 100000 personnes qui en vendent mais ils sont TOUS BO, pas de dates...je me suis fais remboursé 3 fois par 3 compagnies différentes pour l'achat en ligne du EMS...je le voulais.

Le pourquoi que je me dépèchais pour sortir ma voiture (l'achat du FIC vs EMS et le tuyau de piscine comme piping était que je devais sortir la voiture fonctionelle le 15 d'avril du remisage. Meme si elle était sur la rotissoire, il fallait qu'elle sorte de là, c'est pourqoui j'ai du couper les coins ronds. Maintenant, mon piping est en Alu 2po.)
 
kaboshe said:
if your setup is tuned only a wot,your setup is tps based, not rpm related, so it shouldn't affect your daily driving.
Click to expand...
Mon setup est tuné sur le MAF en closed loop et sur le Map sensor en Boost. C'est juste que le boost arrive 300/400rpm avant que l'ordi envoye l'open loop. Ca bogue et il envoie une condition stoich pour revenir avec l'air fuel 14.7:1 a drette ce moment-la.
 
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